Walls have years of history
Derry’s moving past & bustling food scene dish up a compelling break for its tourists
Beautiful sights, a captivating history and good food – what more could anyone want from a mini-break? Derry is the North’s second-biggest city and a real gem that’s ready to be discovered by tourists, from home and abroad.
And now it has a new BMI air route from Stansted as well as services from Liverpool and Glasgow.
Derry – also called Londonderry by the British in 1613 to reflect the funding of the city’s construction by London guilds – has faced and overcome many challenges in its time, and played an important role in some pivotal points in history.
It’s also the North’s only completely walled city, and you can find out much more about it by taking a walking tour with Derry City Tours.
Our guide, Garvin Kerr, must have told his stories and reeled off his facts hundreds, maybe even thousands of times, but his passion was undeniable.
TALES
As we walked along the wall, taking in beautiful views from the city’s highest point on Bishop’s Gate, Garvin told us fascinating tales about how the walls protected the city during a threemonth siege in 1689, thanks to the 13 apprentice boys who closed the gates on the Jacobite army.
The awardwinning Tower Museum inside the walls is a fine place to learn more about the city. You can also see the renaming charter and visit the open-air area with panoramic views across the city and River Foyle. derrystrabane.com/towermuseum
Close by is the 1890 Guildhall, the seat of local government which survived a huge fire in 1908 and bombings during the Troubles in the 1970s. Stunning stained-glass windows each depict a moment in local history.
Our hotel was within the walls too. The Bishop’s Gate Hotel is the city’s newest luxury property and it is delightful. As are its friendly staff who are keen to tell guests about nearby places to visit and shops to check out.
One of those is Yellow Yard, a cool vintage store. Or try the picturesque Craft Village. If you need a pitstop in between shopping and sights, head to the Walled City Brewery; perfect for a great local beer. walledcitybrewery.com
The Museum of Free Derry That night there was more beer, but this time it was Guinness in the bread, paired with aged beef at the award-winning Browns restaurant as part of the stunning tasting menu we had for dinner. brownsrestaurant.com
The Brickwork restaurant is a short walk from the museum. Their spiced sweet potato fries are amazing and they make a mean piña colada too. brickworkderry.wordpress.com.
Next day proved very emotional at the
Museum of Free Derry in the Bogside, where we saw archive footage from the civil rights era of the ’60s and The Troubles of the ’70s. We were guided by John Kelly, whose brother Michael was one of fatally shot on Bloody Sunday in 1972.
You can’t help but be overwhelmed by bullet holes in victims’ clothes and the blood-stained white handkerchief waved by a priest trying to save one of the wounded. museumoffreederry.org, €4
Then we headed 50 minutes out of town to the coast to see Mussenden Temple, built in the 18th century by the eccentric Earl-bishop of Derry for his niece – to whom he was said to be a little too close! nationaltrust.org.uk, €6
History buffs will love learning about this city’s moving past, and foodies will adore the restaurant scene. I spent three days there and it really whetted my appetite for second helpings of both.