Belizey does it
Belize may not be high on everyone’s holiday list – but this Central American wonder should be...
From stunning wildlife to awesome beaches
Skipper Richard cut the Black Orchid’s engine, pointed to a patch of sea and called out: “Coming up, coming up.” Slowly a grey snout broke the emerald green surface followed by the graceful creature’s huge body and paddle-like tail. The magnificent manatee had come up for air but I was the one left breathless.
As it slid back to the depths in the mangrove cove to graze on sea grass, one thing was clear: I was a man at ease with manatees, along with all the adventure and thrills brilliant Belize had to offer.
This tiny but extraordinary Central Magnificent manatee American paradise is less than 70 miles wide and the size of Wales.
So it’s easy to explore the lush rainforests, Mayan temples, waterfalls and caves in the west as well as its Caribbean barrier reef in the east.
Back on the Orchid it was time to check out some boobies, so to speak. There’s no missing the brown booby birds’ tiny island, as the skies above it are filled with flocks of frigate birds – the fish-hunting boobies provide frigates with food in return for protection from predators.
Life under the waves was even more incredible. Snorkelling through valleys of yellow, brown and purple fan and Keel-billed toucan brain coral with parrot, sergeant major and angel fish for company resembled a scene from Sir David Attenborough’s Blue Planet II.
I could have stayed for hours in the warm Caribbean water but it was time to return to the Blue Marlin Beach Resort on South Water Caye, a coral island on the edge the 185-mile long Belize Barrier Reef, the world’s second largest. Staying in their brightly painted, unfussy wooden cabins under palm trees just feet from the sighing sea was like a different world. You could forget everyday stresses by lounging in a hammock, wandering the island or kicking back in Charlie’s bar with a local Belikin beer and a game of pool, tucking into the resort’s excellent food. For the more active there was diving, kayaking and fishing as well as snorkelling. This secluded spot was a complete contrast to its nearest point on the mainland, the town of Dangriga about a 20-minute boat ride. We hit town at dawn, after a comfortable night at Beaches and Dreams Seafront Inn at nearby Hopkins, and the party in the streets was still in full swing. Kids were diving off a low bridge into a creek as revellers danced to the infectious drumbeat of Punta music. Dangriga is the cultural capital of the
Garifuna people who, in traditional boats and costumes on every November 19, re-enact their 19th century arrival in Belize from the Caribbean island of St Vincent.
You’re never far from Belize’s fascinating nature and culture, and one of the best places to appreciate both is at a remarkable spot in the Maya Mountains outside the lively hill town of San Ignacio.
A 40-year labour of love by expats Mick and Lucy Fleming has turned overgrown farmland by the Macal River into the eco-friendly Lodge at Chaa Creek, a luxurious but laidback jungle retreat.
Here you can watch exotic birds from the infinity pool or be serenaded by frogs and crickets while you rock in a hammock or enjoy your cottage’s outdoor shower.
Each palm-thatched room is individually furnished and sleep came easily after a fine meal, made from local produce, at the lodge’s restaurant.
Though my alarm call – unearthly, low, big cat roars from howler monkeys, one of the loudest animals – was unexpected.
But getting up early when there’s so much to do is no hardship.
You can start your day with bird watching. Eagleeyed guide Kevlin armed us with binoculars and helped us spot some of the most flamboyant birds I’ve ever seen. The highlight was the many-coloured keel-billed toucan, Belize’s national bird, flying from tree to tree.
There is also a natural history centre, medicinal plant trail, canoeing on the Macal River and a butterfly farm, which propagates the iridescent Belizean Blue.
The more adventurous can take Dangriga town
a trip to the pools and cascades of the granite Rio On falls and the 150ft Big Rock falls for a swim. The fast-flowing water was refreshing on a sweltering November afternoon at the end of the rainy season.
Another spectacular spot offering relief from the heat is Rio Frio, one
of Belize’s numerous caves. Giant tree roots hang in front of the 65ft high entrance and climbing the rocks into its massive limestone chamber with its immense stalactites and stalagmites is an Indiana Jones moment.
It is little wonder the native Mayans were fearful of caves, convinced they were homes to dark gods to be appeased with sacrifices of corn, chocolate and, sometimes,
The Vicarage is a hotel and restaurant in the heart of the Cheshire countryside, perfect for relaxing and eating posh pub food or for a more strenuous session of countryside treks or cycling trips. It is easy to get to from the M6, or it’s a short walk from Holmes Chapel train station. Recently refurbished, the 17th century Grade Ii-listed retreat has 20 cosy bedrooms and six luxury signature rooms for a little treat or special occasion. If guests have four-legged friends they want to bring to explore the countryside, The Vicarage has a special package with a doggy bag of tasty treats, their own bowl and a fleece blanket. Human treats include roll-top baths in the signature rooms and king-sized beds.
Executive head chef Steven Tuke creates seasonal menus using the gardens’ produce to create locally sourced British menus. We enjoyed the giant Welsh beef steaks, lamb shoulder with veg and hearty soups on a cold people. The Mayans thrived for millennia in Belize and one of their most impressive ruins, dating from 1200BC, is Cahal Pech, translated as place of ticks, on a hill outside San Ignacio.
It has a 77ft stepped temple and a palace with high doorways to make room for headdresses among its 34 buildings.
There is also a ball court where a game involving getting a rubber ball
evening. There was a great selection of beers, wine and spirits but sadly we did not get to sample even half the suggested cocktails in their ‘Drinks Dictionary’.
In the neighbouring town of Knutsford you will find The Courthouse, a Grade Ii-listed building. Dining there allows guests to step into the story of one of the most brilliant but tragic British minds of the last century, Enigma code breaker Alan Turing, who was tried for indecency in this very Courthouse on March 31, 1952. Cheshire has plenty of public footpaths to explore such as at Tatton Park, and there are also a large number of cycling routes in the area, with the hotel able to offer maps and advice.
Rooms in February and March on offer from €130 a night based on two sharing a double room (Signature rooms are a €45 supplement) including dinner to the value of €28pp, cooked breakfast, parking and wi-fi. thevicaragecheshire.com