HOTEL of the week

THE CROWN AT WOODBRIDGE SUFFOLK

WHERE AND WHY This 17th century pub has had a top-tobottom trendy makeover giving it 10 airy rooms off a single corridor, decked out in calm neutral colours. Its sash windows look down straight from the first floor on to the main street, so keep those blinds shut while you use the huge free-standing bath (a proper luxury) and the rain shower. All rooms have satellite TV, crisp cotton bedlinen and tea and coffee-making facilities. The Woodbridge Restaurant offers afternoon teas and gastro dinners in the heart of Woodbridge, an English-as-they-come Suffolk market town full of gift shops and old pubs. Yachts and barges mingle in the vibrant boating community on the River Deben and the local restaurants punch above their weight with urban cool.

ON THE MENU The Crown’s 2AA Rosette restaurant is very much at the gastro end of gastropub with smartly presented plates and lots of adjectives. I was tempted by the ‘Thai’-style mussels’ for a starter but went for seared scallops with chorizo and squid ink polenta (£12), which melted away in the mouth. My wild rabbit wrapped in streaky bacon (£18) was dense and rich, with a reassuring trace of shot. The tart burst of rhubarb with my panna cotta dessert (£6.50) sealed the country pub flavour.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE

Woodbridge is at the southern end of Suffolk’s sunrise coast dotted with reassuringly twee towns up to Lowestoft. Long lazy walks along the River Deben are a must and ancient burial site Sutton Hoo has plenty of activities for the kids. If you like a spa experience, the Crown does special packages with the town’s Bathsheba Spa.

WAKE UP CALL Double rooms start at £115 for two sharing with breakfast. To book, call 0044 1394 384242 or visit thecrownatwoodbridge.co.uk DAN BLOOM