Pier we go
From running joke to trendy destination, Southend is a smart choice for families
Enjoy a stroll down Britain’s longest pier
First, a confession: I am biased. I was born and bred within a jellied-eel-shaped stone’s throw of the place. I spent endless summers being dragged along the seafront.
“We’ll have a really lovely day,” my parents assured me, looking decidedly unconvinced. I kept quiet.
And I kept quiet as I grew up and listened to people poking fun at it.
The beach really filthy. The penny arcades dirty and tacky. The sand-infused cockles? Cordon Bl-eughr.
Yes, it had Britain’s longest pier. But a walk along it was about as exciting as the resort’s Punch and Judy act. But times change and so, too, has Essex’s Southend-on-sea.
Thanks to a huge investment, it has been transformed. Many now liken it to Brighton.
Down by the sea, it’s all change. The beach is spotless and when the sun shines, it is full.
The beating heart of the resort, Adventure Island, is ranked Britain’s No1 free fun park. Those arcades over the road are now fun rather than naff. The neighbouring cafes serve up the best fish and chips.
And that boring pier? There’s a pot-of-gold at the end: a brilliant cafe that Jamie Oliver has made home for one of his TV shows.
Half a century ago, Southend airport was one of Britain’s busiest. In the 80s and 90s it went to rack and ruin. Now, after a €180million investment from the Stobart Group, it is flying high again, winning awards and jetting passengers to more places than ever.
I am so fond of Southend I got married there. And we recently returned to celebrate our third anniversary, staying at the Seven Hotel.
Ten years ago, the idea of opening a luxury hotel would have seen you laughed out of town. Yet, since opening in January, Seven is booming.
The four-storey boutique hotel has 37 rooms including five luxury suites. Rooms are modern yet elegant and provide stunning views across the Thames Estuary.
But the real eye opener is the food. The menus, by award-winning chef Simon Webb, are stunning. The Aurum Restaurant is one of the reasons Seven regularly makes the top 20 best seaside hotels in the country.
We stayed on a Sunday and feasted on hot olives, fresh oysters, cod roe with sourdough bread and beef rib Southend beach is spotless and loved by families Nick’s three girls and pup
croquettes and then roast beef with all the trimmings. Breakfast, too, was a triumph with dishes including cockles from nearby Leigh-on-sea. We enjoyed a cocktail (or two) at the gin bar to toast our anniversary. Sitting outside on the terrace, watching the sun set over the sea, it was hard to believe I was in the place I knew as a kid.
Family after family arrived for an evening walk along the front, many with dogs in tow. My wife and I agreed Elegant room at the new Seven Hotel
that, despite the joy of a kid-free night, we wished our two daughters and pooch were there to share the moment. So after checking out the next day and picking them up from Nanny and Grandad, we headed back to the sea.
The kids loved their evening stroll and doughnuts on the beach.
“When can we come back, Dad?” was the question on the way home. ‘‘Soon,’’ was the reply. Well, I am biased...
Jamie Oliver with pal Jimmy at his cafe and, above, Adventure Island