Jurassic perk
THOMPSON
EMashpi Lodge nveloped by dense forest on volcanic Isabela Island in the Galapagos sits Scalesia Lodge. Mature pepper ferns, sword ferns, towering cacao trees and dagger-edged elephant grass are dominant in this arable landscape. Dotted about are 16 safari tents which wouldn’t look out of place on Africa’s vast open plains.
Suddenly a massive tremor jolts me from my inertia. The noise is deafening, like a train thundering through the open-plan reception. It lasts mere seconds, yet feels like hours.
Afterwards, manager Marco tells me this seismic activity is perfectly normal thanks to the geographical make-up of Isabela – which is 99 per cent volcanic.
It’s home to the world’s secondlargest volcano, the 3,680ft high Sierra Negra, which has been simmering away since November 2017 when it woke up. On June 28, 2018, it finally blew its top and is still active in varying Volcanic landscape of Sierra Negra Prehistoric lizards rule the islands now. I couldn’t resist a closer look. My guided three-hour tour led me through verdant farms, layered in volcanic mulch – oranges, bananas, guavas and livestock thrive here – up to the vast, lifeless sea of black lava.
We sat mesmerised on its southern rim watching puffs of gas escape.
Isabela’s only town, Puerto Villamil (pop. 2500), was formed by coalesced lava flows, with many houses literally balancing on their jagged foundations.
Elsewhere the wide beaches, dotted with bars and rustic restaurants, attract backpackers galore who come to surf and hang out on hammocks.
Many roads are still dirt and it’s home to a huge population of marine iguanas that have the run of the place.
At the Iguana Bar, they crawl up the seaside wall chasing the last of the day’s warm rays.
With luminous orange crabs scutdegrees tling over smooth lava, pelicans diving for dinner, and sea lions enjoying siestas on park benches, you could easily believe someone had spiked your drink. Particularly as you visit the neighbouring Tintoreras islets, reached by a small cruiser. Strolling along the boardwalk we spotted whitetip reef sharks resting in a collapsed lava tube, and iguanas gliding across the lagoon. Many visitors come to nearby Santa Cruz to see the giant tortoises. Found in the ranches up in the highlands among the indigenous Scalesia trees, they live a charmed life. With open fields, muddy pools for wallowing and an abundance of grass to nibble, they don’t stray too far. There’s no doubt the Galapagos Islands are isolated and sheltered from the modern world. Wildlife reigns supreme and the flora and fauna are fiercely protected. Anyone caught taking home as much as a blade of grass faces a heavy
fine or even jail. Arriving here takes some doing too: a direct British Airways flight to Miami, connecting on American Airlines to Ecuador’s largest city, Guayaquil, before a smaller hop to the Galapagos Islands’ army base on Baltra, followed by a boat and bus transfer. But it’s worth it.
Once here, accessing the archipelago is like entering a quarantine zone. Planes are sprayed before landing and disinfection mats are laid out on the tarmac. No food is allowed in. It feels as pristine as it looks. Even the hotels have biodegradable toiletries, recycled water and solar power.
PERFECT
Santa Cruz’s modern Finch Bay hotel has white interiors, natural woods and sandy walkways – it looks like a 27-room beach house.
A leisurely three-hour cruise out of Santa Cruz brings you to the iconic Pinnacle Rock. Shaped like a crystal, it’s fringed by two perfect beaches – a dreamy location for the celebrated blue-footed boobies.
Opposite, Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island offers another surreal encounter with iguanas.
And so on to the Ecuador mainland and the capital Quito, a charming colonial city high in the Andes, founded in 1634. Hemmed in by the majestic mountains, this impeccablyrestored jumble of steep cobbled streets, ornate churches and lively squares was the first to be awarded Unesco World Heritage Site status, in 1978.
Ladies in traditional dress – long skirts, pinned shawls and fedoras – arrive from surrounding villages to tout their wares, from large chunks of creamy layered sponge to bags of fruit and colourful shawls.
Protecting this magical city is a 134ft high statue of the Winged Madonna, holding a dragon on a chain (the conquered Devil).
Here locals rely on natural remedies, as I discovered on a tour organised by Metropolitan Touring, with young Joselin Pavón who grew up in the steep San Roque area of the old town. She offered us a glimpse into their lives and traditions. Ancient tortoises are protected We began at San Francisco market, which consists of food stalls serving local delicacies of meat and rice from large beaten metal pots. But off to one side are a few tiny stalls with towering stands of herbs. I watched “healer” Rosa Mercedes run raw eggs over the legs of a young baby to absorb bad energy and help with sleep.
She also rubbed bunches of mixed herbs over adults to help with detoxification.
I chose a “cure” of Ecuadorian chocolate from the Molino de San Martin Mill, where everything is organic. We continued our odyssey at Chez Tiff, whose speciality is passionfruit creams.
The sun shines as we head up to the cloud forest. Surrounded by jagged mountains, this is the dramatic road to Mashpi Rainforest Biodiversity Reserve, 10,000ft above sea level and a three-hour drive from Quito.
Mashpi Lodge is an oasis in the forest. All the eye can see is lush rainforest. What’s even better is that you can tailor your time to how active you want to be.
Dive into a waterfall pool? No problem. I wanted to see it all so I began with a gentle ride on the Dragonfly – essentially a gondola – with guide Estuardo.
Our “flight” took us 395ft above
in the thick of the 21st century hustle and bustle of a busy city centre. What’s not to like? The hotel has all mod cons and the staff are lovely.
Breakfast is in a converted basement with the original city walls as a backdrop. On offer are fresh fruit and croissants, and a lovely selection of cereals, cheeses and meats. The cooked options really are fit for a king. I had eggs Benedict – delicious.
The City of Dreaming Spires awaits! Choose from the glorious University colleges, superb museums, Weston Library –
exhibiting some of the Bodleian Library’s greatest treasures including Magna Carta, Jane Austen manuscripts and Shakespeare’s first folio. You can immerse yourself in 1,000 years of history at Oxford Castle. Add great pubs, Inspector Morse locations, independent shops and punting on the river in good weather and your weekend is packed with goodies. Walking tours are widely available and a great way to discover the city.
B&B from €90pp.