Paddle power
Carmarthenshire has everything you need for an action-packed family summer break
My paddleboard instructor is doing his best to convince me I’m getting the hang of it. “You nearly caught that wave,” he fibs as I face-plant the surf yet again.
We both know I didn’t, but Gary’s can-do attitude is infectious, and I haul myself back on my board and prepare for another dip. Although falling in is actually a blessing as we’re on sun-soaked Pendine Sands in Carmarthenshire, Wales, and the temperature is pushing 300C.
We were spending a few days in Ferryside, a quaint village on the Towy river where, after 70 years, the boat has come back in, restoring the water link to Llansteffan on the opposite bank. It’s actually an amphibious boat with “legs” – retractable wheels that drop down after crossing the estuary to drive up the beach.
I watched the fascinating craft as I lazed on the balcony at Foreshore Tides, our spotless highspec base. With stunning views across to Llansteffan Castle, the complex is the creation of builder Rik, who says: “You pay millions for a sea glimpse in parts of the UK. Here you can see right across the whole bay!”
The pace of life here is wonderfully sleepy, yet Ferryside is on the main rail line, with direct services to London. If you do feel the need for speed, head to Pendine Sands, home of land speed record attempts since the 1920s.
The Museum of Speed overlooking the beach houses Babs, the car in which John Parry-thomas tragically died trying to wrench the record back from Malcolm Campbell in 1927.
Today the beach is calm, and we hire wetsuits and kayaks from Chad ’n’ Olly’s Beach Hut, run by charming Nicky and Gary, who coaches our paddleboarding.
Gazing out over the surf, Gary muses: “On a good day there’s beautiful 5ft waves. It’s like being in California.”
After drying off we nipped next door to Tea By The Sea café, where the friendly welcome and delicious lunches are matched only by the views.
Just up the coast is Laugharne, once home to Dylan Thomas. We mingled with fans from across the world in his nearby
home, The Boathouse, which is now museum. That evening we headed to Machynys Golf Club for a wonderful meal in the Bar and Brasserie. We dined on the sun deck, and watched a magnificent sunset over Carmarthenshire Bay. The following day we went to Pembrey Country Park, 330 acres of coastal parkland with everything from dry slope skiing to country walks and archery. We had great fun whizzing down the toboggan run and, after getting our breath back, we hired bikes and pedalled on to the national cycle path, a 150-mile car-free coastal route.
This part of it passes through the Millennium Coastal Park, and the views across the dunes to the sea are gorgeous.
My gentle steed is happy nibbling the hedgerows, while I enjoy the views
At Burry Port, home of Wales’ newest marina, we had a tasty lunch at Whitford’s café. Our fuel tanks refilled, we swapped saddles at Pembrey Park Riding Centre for a horseback ride in the forest.
I’m a touch apprehensive but my gentle steed is happy nibbling the hedgerows, leaving me to enjoy the views. We finished the day with a superb meal at Stradey Park Hotel, dining in style in the Copperplate
Bar and Grill. It’s time to head home, and on the way we stopped at Llandeilo, on the edge of the Brecon Beacons. The picturesque town is building a reputation as an arty retreat, and galleries and boutiques line chic Market Street, where we had lunch at the wonderful Ginhaus Deli, with its impressive Wall of Gin collection.
If you need a tonic, wonderful Carmarthenshire will provide it.