Will Hayward shuns brash Orlando for Florida’s coolest hot spot Beach joys
New Smyrna Beach is pretty much in the middle of Florida’s Atlantic coast yet it is, in many ways, the antidote to the traditional Florida experience.
Anyone who has ever been to Orlando knows what I am talking about – bright lights, theme parks, rides and larger-than-life characters. And everything loud, loud, loud.
Despite being only an hour’s drive from Orlando, New Smyrna Beach could not be more different. It is quirky, a bit alternative and seemingly far more in touch with the Sunshine State’s amazing nature than roller coasters to the west. Put simply, NSB is pretty cool.
This doesn’t mean there is nothing to do – there is enough here to fill a week – it’s just that it moves at a different pace and has a different vibe to the more familiar Florida destinations.
Take a drive on the beach?
One of the distinctive features of New Smyrna is the beach. Despite taking a pounding in recent brutal storms that have hit much of Florida and the Caribbean, the city’s beach is a great place to visit. Extending for miles and miles, the sand is naturally very compact. This means it isn’t just easy to walk on, you can drive on it too.
Locals descend on the beach in huge numbers with their pick-up trucks, park up, fire up the barbie and enjoy an evening on the sands. Yet because of its enormous size, it never feels busy.
If you want to get active you can hire electric bikes and explore the beach effortlessly. Flaunt Electric Vehicles is a cool independent local business where you hire bikes for $40pp for a half-day or $70 for a full day.
Nature and history
You don’t have to travel far to see Florida’s famous mangrove swamps, which weave their way through a part of the town.
Although impressive to look at from the banks, if you really want to immerse yourself in these incredible habitats you have to take to the water.
The Marine Discovery Center offers several tours – and the Browns Bay Kayak Tour is not to be missed. This two-hour outing, led by a certified Florida naturalist, allows you to explore the backwaters of the Indian River Lagoon around Browns Bay and Little Snapper Cut.
The guides really know their stuff and clearly love the environment they are battling to protect. At just $40 per adult kayak, the tour is a bargain.
River dolphins will regularly come and introduce themselves and, depending on the time of year, even a manatee will too. Nothing gets you closer to real Florida than watching the huge pelicans plummet into the water by your kayak to catch fish (although some have realised they are better off just waiting for humans to leave some of their meal at a local restaurant).
If you would rather not explore
The dolphins will tail the river tour boat, swimming in its wake
the mangrove using your arms you can opt for something more leisurely with Turtle Mound River Tours. From their boat they offer a scenic twohour public tour for $30pp.
The river dolphins seem to particularly approve of this one and will tail the boat, swimming in its wake.
Once you are back on dry land you should call into New Smyrna Museum of History, founded by Scottish physician Dr Andrew Turnbull.
Though not a massive museum it is nevertheless incredible to learn about the brutal settler origins of the city. While children under 10 get in free, it is only eight bucks for an adult.
Sleeping, eating and drinking
There are a couple of different sides to NSB. The part closest to the beach around Flagler Avenue is the more touristy area where you get Americana-style shops and bars, although there are still some great places to eat and drink – Cafe Verde and Avanu On Flagler really stood out for me.
The most quirky part of the city is based around Canal Street, with The Hub on Canal and Jane’s Art Center well worth a visit for culture vultures.
If you want to get a bit boozy in a way that will make the coolest hipsters jealous, New Smyrna Beach Brewing Company and Sugar Works Distillery are unique independents where you can wet your whistle in a trendy environment.
For somewhere unforgettable to stay, book yourself a room at Victoria 1883.
One of oldest buildings in the town, the renovation of this hotel has been a true labour of love by the family who now own it.
It feels almost churlish to describe it as a hotel because in many ways it feels like a home. Every room is unique and the food changes daily. The attention to detail has to be seen to be believed. The owners have even built a secret door to their very own speakeasy where you can enjoy your favourite tipple. The building also comes with its own dock so you can enjoy your morning coffee while overlooking the mangroves and the manatees. The only problem is, staying here is so perfect that you might not want to go out to explore this fantastic city.