Shear heaven
Veering slightly off route on her traditional journey home, Jennifer Maloney finds what Untapped Mid Ulster has to offer
just outside Maghera, traces the steps of people making their way to the port in Derry to set sail for a new life in America. Cathy’s tour also includes an adapted fireside version in Friel’s for less agile visitors. And she explained how on the mountain many leaving for a new life in the States said farewell to their families at this point. There was a tradition for those making the journey to place a stone on the Carn which they could retrieve years later if they ever returned. As many died on the coffin ships, they never made it back home to retrieve their stones which remain piled high in their memory. While in Friel’s, we heard more Famine tales from Dermot. Although we were in Seamus Heaney country, the publican told us the story of local legend Mick Mcatamney – the Bard of Moneysharvin. The local character spent years in America where he lived a colourful life and on his return his only possession was his hand-carved stick. The stick, which takes pride of place in the pub, was carved by Mick in San Quentin State Prison in California. Back on the coach again we were on my familiar road home but we turned off halfway up Glenshane Pass and onto the working farm of Jamese Mccloy.
His family have been sheep farmers in the area for four generations. In his purpose built viewing gallery, we were treated to an enthusiastic talk from Jamese who regaled us with tales of how he acquired his bespoke shepherd’s crook. A natural storyteller, the tour was enthralled as to how a skilled craftsman from
Castlederg measured him for size for his farming implement while the picking of the hooked top of the crook had echoes of Harry Potter being chosen by his wand.
Jamese showed us how his expertly trained border collies Tess and Jess worked the fields and can understand his commands in Irish and English. In his barn we perched on haystacks as Jamese deftly sheered a 16-stone sheep in minutes. And as this is a working farm, full of all sorts of creatures great and small, this townie even felt brave enough to hold a tiny lamb for a while. Leaving the Glenshane Pass, we made our way back to Newferry for a short afternoon cruise with River Bann Tours. Our adventure, featuring guides with extensive local knowledge and a fondness for the local delicacy – eels – took us out along the waters. We navigated along Lough Beg to Church Island spotting plenty of local wildlife along the way.
On the island there is the Bullaun Stone, with a hole that holds water, said to have healing properties and also to have used by St Patrick when praying. Our journey home to the jetty to finish off our Mid Ulster adventure took us past the Lough Neagh Fishery which features in the four-day tour alongside other businesses including Seamus Heaney Homeplace, Heaney Farmhouse Brewery and Ardtara House.
For bookings go to www.crogatours.com
Jamese deftly sheered a 16-stone sheep in minutes