Charm after a storm
Barry Cooper is won over by southern Florida and its spirited recovery from a furious hurricane
Seven months have passed since Hurricane Ian ripped through the east coast of Florida, with Fort Myers and nearby Captiva Island bearing the brunt of his ire. After the initial shock of the devastation, a clean-up and rebuilding programme began and, one by one, businesses set about reopening.
A much-loved holiday destination for decades, the southern reaches of the Gulf Coast are often seen as the antidote to the wild rides of the Orlando theme parks.
Drawn to its laid-back beach life, seafood restaurants and glorious sunsets, loyal visitors are heading back to its shores again, while new generations are discovering its charms for the first time.
It might look a little different right now, but the warm welcome hasn’t changed, as I discovered on my springtime trip across the pond.
After touching down in Tampa, I took a pit stop at holidaymakers’ favourite Bimini Bait Shack, just before the causeway to Sanibel Island.
Set up on wooden columns about 20 feet in the air, the seafood restaurant, tiki bar and grill managed to weather the storm with minimal damage – even the fish in its famous tank survived.
With fun and friendly vibes it’s an ideal spot to get into vacation mode, particularly if you like snacking on gator tails – a Florida delicacy – and drinking Key West Sunset beer, as a Johnny Cash tribute band plays in the corner.
Heading across the causeway to Sanibel, then up to Captiva Island, I checked in at ’Tween Waters Island Resort & Spa, a cosy coastal retreat with beach cottages, rooms and studios, perfectly placed between the Gulf of Mexico and Pine Island Sound.
Come sunrise, the breathtaking views across the mangrove forests gave little indication of what had happened just a few months before. Pristine waters, sugar sand beaches – “paradise”, the locals refer to it as – and barely a moment after dawn.
I stood watching the passing fishing boats, kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders enjoying the peace of an early-morning jaunt on the water. It’s no wonder the resort’s motto is “Shouldn’t every day be this good?”
Recovery from
Ian has been swift here, with volunteers from across the US drafted in to clear up, remove debris and begin the not insurmountable task of rebuilding.
Spirit, however, is undiminished. Hurricanes in this part of Florida are not unusual but this one cut deeper than the rest, it being more deadly, more damaging and more expensive.
Testament to that spirit is the island’s farmers’ market. With its previous home no longer available, Jerry’s Foods on Sanibel opened up its car park, the two coexisting and
working together – a prime
Visitors are drawn to its laid-back beach life and glorious sunsets
example of the close-knit community these islands have.
If America is known for its commercialism, this neck of the woods breaks down that stereotype in some style, with a New England feel about it.
Captiva is quiet, its long stretches of sandy beaches drift on for as far as the eye can see, and what’s more, you don’t have to wrestle throngs of tourists for hotel rooms and restaurant tables. Here, you’ll find no skyscrapers, no big, brash buildings. Instead, you’ll see leafy streets snaking towards the water on both sides.
It’s obvious this area LEGACY has good taste too. It has its very own British pub, the Mucky Duck, and from its doorstep you’ll have a prime spot for watching the sunset over the bay.
Of course, food – and lots of it – will always be one of America’s fundamentals; they do it so well, after all.
If seafood is your thing then this part of the Sunshine State prides itself on its fresh
shrimp, oysters, snapper and swordfish, and be sure to try the Orange Blossom beer with a hint of honey.
It’s also famous for its family-run restaurants. Sample authentic Italian pasta dishes and wood-fired pizzas at Tutti Pazzi, built on stilts on Sanibel. There’s live music here too.
As they often do, some wildlife on Captiva had prior warning about what was to come, escaping the storm then returning after it had subsided.
Groups of dolphins were tracked leaving and have been warmly received back. I got to witness them frolicking in the waters on a spectacular cruise to Cabbage Key, a place only accessible by boat, seaplane or water taxi. The 100-acre island itself is known for its natural beauty and secluded beaches.
Meanwhile gators, raccoons, iguanas, manatees and a thriving bird population continue to flourish, many of which are nurtured at The J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel.
An hour or so over the causeway – damaged by Ian and repaired within 14 days – brings you to Downtown Fort Myers, a captivating little enclave which resembles a film set.
There are waterfront neighbourhoods, shopping, dining and arts venues. And with dozens of wellorganised cycling routes it’s ideal for a spin on two wheels.
While the streets have a chilled vibe by day, once the sun’s gone down the place comes alive with music pouring from the bars which light up the tree-lined avenues. This area was put on the map by the opulent winter retreats of inventor Thomas Edison and his friend Henry Ford, founder of the motor company. Their neighbouring estates, just a short hop outside the city beside the Caloosahatchee River, offer a glimpse into the lives and legacies of these famous pioneers through their historic homes, botanical gardens, a museum and a laboratory. Standing proudly above the harbour sits the Luminary Hotel & Co with rooftop bar, fitness centre and free bikes to borrow. Its fabulous Oxbow Bar & Grill is a great place for a classy dinner in gorgeous surroundings. Spark things up with a ‘Lit Like Edison’ cocktail mixed with mezcal, pineapple, lime, and chilli, before moving on to fresh oysters and steak, finishing off with key lime pie. Over on Fort Myers beach the damage from Ian is probably at its most visible, but again, a complete rebuild is taking place. Central to that recovery is the Margaritaville resort, inspired by the country singer Jimmy Buffett. Built on the beach, the Caribbeanthemed resort will be the epicentre of activity and is viewed as a beacon of hope for the area.
And, in a bid to make the area even more appealing, particularly for UK travellers, it’s hoped direct flights from Gatwick to the nearby Southwest Florida airport will not be too far away, with Tampa currently the closest for international arrivals.
Fort Myers and its islands are yet to fully arrive on the world tourist map, but there’s a warm welcome waiting on this special side of Florida.