The heart of old Spain
Full of charming villages and towns, amazing history and fabulous food, Erica Carter goes off the beaten track in the unspoilt region of Extremadura
If you’re looking to change things up on your next trip to Spain and explore more of the country, away from the touristy hotspots, add Extremadura to your itinerary. Situated in western Spain, the unspoilt region of Extremadura is one of the country’s most untouched gems dotted with some stunningly authentic old-fashioned villages with lush green valleys and national parks that are home to a wide variety of wildlife. The diversity of its culture, nature, food, and leisure activities makes this region a treat to explore.
A leading region for Spanish gastronomy makes it a paradise for foodies too. The area is famous for its Iberian ham – thanks to its natural and unique environment, the Dehesa, where the pigs roam free eating acorns. The traditional ways of curing and sampling the ham make this product considered to be some of the best in the world.
The absolute silver lining is that as a less travelled part of Spain, everything is very affordable unlike the more popular holiday hotspots. It hasn’t been hit with inflated prices – even at high-end restaurants, the prices are low and the hotels we have recommended are all extremely reasonably priced.
WHERE TO VISIT AND WHAT TO DO
Extremadura is home to a number of different provinces, which all have their own unique charms. For anyone who loves exploring old towns, Plasencia should be on your list. A walled market city on the bank of the Jerte River, Plasencia has a historic quarter that is a consequence of the city’s strategic location along the Silver Route, or Ruta de la Plata. Palaces, ancestral homes and significant religious buildings make up a unique old quarter.
Take a trip to El Anillo, where you can take a boat across the Gabriel y Galán Reservoir in the fabulous sunshine. Nearby you can see the town of Granadilla, a ghost town with an interesting history. In 1955, its residents had to leave when the Spanish Council of Ministers built a reservoir. Currently, the area is a summer campsite for young people and tourists. If you love historic buildings, or if you’re a Game Of Thrones fan, you need to see the city of Cáceres. It was declared a World Heritage City by Unesco in 1986 because of the city’s blend of Roman, Islamic, Northern Gothic and Italian Renaissance styles, the result of many civilisations settling there throughout history. An amazing 30 towers from the Islamic period still stand in Cáceres. Because the town is so well preserved, it was used to film scenes from hit shows Game Of Thrones and House Of The Dragon. Visitors have the opportunity to take tours showing off the specific areas in which the shows were filmed – eagle-eyed fans would spot scenes from the King’s Landing a mile away.
The entirety of Extremadura is well known for producing top quality extravirgin olive oil, and visitors have the opportunity to visit the As Pontis Olive Oil Mill in Sierra de Gata-Hurdes, which is in the province of Cáceres. Here, you can see the whole process of making olive oil and have a tasting.
Near Sierra de Gata, you can find the stunning village of San Martin de Trevejo. With its gorgeous views of nearby mountains as well as its unique and funky mix of local shops, this is a fantastic place to spend an afternoon wandering around.
For anyone who prefers a busier city, Mérida is the perfect mix of modern and historical. Founded in 25BC, it
boasts some of the finest Roman ruins in the whole of Spain and possibly the world. There is a Roman theatre where open air festivals and concerts are still held, as well the amphitheatre, the Temple of Diana and the Roman Bridge. It is nowadays the administrative capital of the region of Extremadura. And there’s plenty of places for shopping and dining also.
For those who are interested in visiting places of worship, there are amazing cathedrals dotted all over the region also. However, in the town of Coria, people have the opportunity to see one of the most well-known Christian relics – the tablecloth used during the Last Supper. This relic, considered one of the most important in Christianity, is on display in the Museum of the Cathedral of Coria. The tale goes that the piece of cloth was used by Jesus at the Last Supper with the 12 apostles.
WHERE TO STAY
The Hotel Palacio Carvajal Girón is located in the old part of the city of Plasencia, in the heart of the old Jewish quarter and very close to the cathedral. It is an old Renaissance palace from the end of the 16th century, restored in 2012 and declared an Asset of Cultural Interest. It has 28 rooms divided into three categories: Standard, Grand Class and Junior Suite. Inside you will find a restaurant, cafeteria with a gastrobar, event spaces, meeting rooms, a small outdoor pool for the summer season and a viewpoint with the best views of the city cathedral. The rooms are beautifully decorated in a minimal style. The only downside is that the shower and bath are in the room, so there’s no privacy!
The stunning Aqua Et Oleum Rural Hotel was originally an old olive oil mill alongside a brook. The mill has been transformed into this luxurious destination boutique hotel which is situated in the middle of an olive grove and vineyard on the outskirts of Villamiel. It all started back in 2016 when the owner Joseph stumbled across the property and fell in love with the location. It is the perfect place to relax at the pool and pass your days within a beautiful setting. There are hiking trails up the nearby hills if you’re in the mood to get active, or you can drive 10 minutes up the hills to check out the beautiful Castillo de Trevejo castle. The hotel’s restaurant serves delicious traditional food and has a cool bar if you fancy a tipple. The bedrooms are spacious and stylish, with a living area in every one – however, if you like to keep up-to-date with the online world you may run into an issue, as there is very little signal in the area and the wifi is hit or miss.
If you’re looking for a hotel with plenty of facilities, the five-star Ilunion Hotel Mérida Palace in Mérida city centre has a pool-solarium on the rooftop, where you can enjoy the sunset over the Plaza de España and the city’s historic quarter. The hotel offers a fully-equipped gym, a restaurant, working areas with sockets where you can work at ease with your laptop, and multi-purpose rooms to celebrate any kind of event. The room decor could be considered old fashioned, but the balcony and size of the room more than makes up for it.
WHERE TO EAT
Versátil: This Michelin star restaurant in Zarza de Granadilla in the north of Cáceres province is the perfect destination for foodies. It is rare to find refined cuisine of this level in such a rural village, so Versátil will definitely come as a pleasant surprise to anyone in the area. It’s an eclectic yet welcoming space with fantastic service and an approachable menu. Definitely try the €69 tasting menu – I’ve been thinking about the Iberian pork carpaccio ever since.
Hábitat Cigüeña Negra: This rural hotel lets guests enjoy stunning views of Sierra de Gata in their Michelinrecommended restaurant. It takes its name from the black stork, a migratory bird which nests in several locations on the estate. On the menu, choose from a regionally inspired à la carte menu which is strong on grilled meats, especially its own goat, Iberian pork and unique red wagyu beef.
13 de San Antón: Nestled in the city of Caceres, this restaurant specialises in traditional, local food. On the menu, you can find things like Arroz de Presa Ibérica de Bellota, which is a stew-like rice dish made with Iberico pork. The staff were friendly and warm and it’s a great place to get casually acquainted with the local cuisine.