Walk On By
Walking can be healthy, therapeutic, educational or just plain fun. We recommend a variety of walks from around the country
Rejoycing in Dublin
When walking in James Joyce’s Dublin footsteps, the possibilities are endless. is is a man, a er all, who lived in 19 di erent addresses in the capital, not to mention the fact that his magnum opus, Ulysses (currently celebrating its centenary), involves characters who spend a day perambulating about the metropolis. If you’re hard-core, you could start with a hearty breakfast of grilled mutton kidneys, don a straw boater and emulate Leopold Bloom’s precise lunchtime walk.
Or why not begin at Davy Byrne’s pub in Duke Street for a more palatable gorgonzola sandwich washed down with burgundy? It’s a short walk to Nassau Street where Joyce rst bumped into chambermaid Nora Barnacle as she emerged from Finn’s Hotel. (You can still see the name on the side of the Dental University Hospital.) Not far away is Sweny’s Chemist in Lincoln Place, where Bloom bought lemon-scented soap for Molly that’s still available today. Pass by the National Library, site of the Lestrygonians episode, and head towards Stephen’s Green, where the trees ‘were fragrant of rain and the rainsodden earth gave forth its mortal odour’. Here you’ll nd a bust of the author, facing
e Museum of Literature Ireland, which is currently running Joycean exhibitions, including Love, says Bloom, curated by Nuala O’connor, author of Nora, this year’s One Dublin: One Book choice. Head towards the Westland Row DART for Sandycove where, like Stephen Dedalus, you can ‘gaze southward over the bay, empty save for the smoke plume of the mailboat’. On to the Martello Tower, forever immortalised in the opening chapter of Ulysses. You’ll nd rst editions of the novel, Joyce’s guitar and even an empty pot of Plumtree’s Potted Meat (‘what is home without it?’ etc.). Finally, emulate Buck Mulligan with a dip in the snotgreen, scrotumtightening sea. Bloomin’ marvellous. Michael Doherty
e Wild West Ballyvaughan Wood Loop Length: 8km
Di culty level: Moderate Walk type: Loop (2 hours)
Ballyvaughan is a beautiful little town in County Clare, famous as a shing port and a good base for exploring this plentiful county. If you’re staying in town or in any of the nearby villages (Kinvara or Doolin), this is a fantastic little walk to enjoy on a warm day, o ering a peek at the unique and beautiful landscape of the Burren. It’s a two-hour walk and is ideal for beginners or leisurely walkers, good for families and bigger children should be well able for it, enjoying the wildlife along the way. Starting at the seafront, the trail takes you into the surrounding woodlands and farmlands, where you’ll see vivid elds of green, divided up by ancient dry-stone walls. About midway through the walk, you’ll come across the famous Ailwee Caves, which are well worth checking out if you have time. From here, the trail loops back to Ballyvaughan, taking in elds strewn with the limestone slabs that the Burren is famous for. e scenery on this section is absolutely fantastic and a good spot for some photos. When you get back to the village, be sure to stop at Monks seafood restaurant; set on the pier with an outdoor terrace. It’s famous for its seafood chowder and delicious sh and chips; the perfect reward a er stretching out those legs. Janice Butler