Lucinda goes green
With a fantastic selection of wines from small individual producers, matched with a lovely wine bar menu, Lucinda O’Sullivan finds Green Man Wines is a great addition to the Dublin suburb of Terenure
There’s something very civilised about having a nibble, on a balmy summer evening, surrounded by lots of lovely bottles of wine! Green Man Wines is a great addition to the Dublin suburb of Terenure, which, it has to be said, with a few exceptions, is not one of the best dining destinations in the city.
The husband-and-wife team behind this venture have been steeped in the world of wine, if you will forgive the pun, for many years. David Gallagher’s career has seen him as manager of wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd, and more recently at Fallon & Byrne’s wine cellar, while Claire O’Boyle Gallagher is a member of Pascal Rossignol’s Kilkenny-based Le Caveau team, who import many great wines into Ireland. Claire was also a regular lecturer for the Wine Board of Ireland. The duo specialise in wines made by artisan growers, many of whom farm and produce their wines organically, biodynamically and naturally.
They also have a serious team of interesting food, wine and event professionals on board. Lori Nardone, the general manager, has been in event and hospitality management, while the head chef, Sebastian Sanz, has worked all over Europe, including at Ferran Adria’s el Bulli, and more recently at Dublin’s Las Tapas de Lola. He, we are told, is passionate about generating maximum flavour from excellent raw ingredients, and he certainly achieved this with a beef dish we experienced. On the floor were Matus Jus cak, formerly of Fallon & Byrne, and Tina Ior lano, who previously worked at Thornton’s on St Stephen’s Green.
The look and style of the shop is cool and contemporary, with a couple of small tables in the front window. The main wine bar/ dining area is through an archway, with a bright section to the front, and a more intimate area leading off it. The menu consists of charcuterie, cheese and smoked fish boards, along with some really good tapas-style cold plates that we thought were very good value, priced from €4–€16. Smoked duck magret with bread comes in at €6.50; as does a spicy half chorizo sausage, with olives and bread. Jamon Iberico, with picos, was there at €15; while chicken liver pate, with fig chutney, was €9.50.
We ordered three dishes to share, including fuet (€5.50), an excellent Catalan dry-cured pork sausage, served in one piece, with a bowl of lovely mixed olives and bread. A plate of beef fillet tiradito (€9.50) proved to be a little stunner. Peruvian-style tiradito is a bit like the Italian carpaccio or tagliata — beef, lightly seared on the outside, sliced and served on the bluer side of blue! Not for the faint-hearted, but it is a very popular dish worldwide. Here, the sliced beef, bathed in olive oil, had a wonderful flavour, and was topped with mixed leaves and a soft poached egg. Our third plate sported a quartet of large gambas (€13), lined up ‘spoon style’ on a slate, intermingled with thin lemon slices, radish wafers and a lemon aioli. It was a perfect light dish for a summer’s evening.
Moving on, Mary had a rich, dense orange-and-chocolate mousse, topped with orange segments and served in a jar. It was divine, and a veritable steal at €5.50. I loved my plate of manchego cheese (€5.50), served Spanish style, with a dish of honey, and artisan biscuits.
When it comes to wine, you can pick a bottle from the shop shelves and pay corkage of €8 to drink it in the wine bar. Alternatively, you can choose from their wine list, which is priced on the same basis. So, with a delicious bottle of crisp and tangy Saladini Pilastri Falerio 2014, from the Italian Marche region (€24), and two espressos (€6), our bill, with optional service, came to €76. A Green Man Wines, 3 Terenure Road North, Terenure, Dublin 6 Tel: (01) 559-4235 greenmanwines.ie