Lucinda goes green

With a fan­tas­tic se­lec­tion of wines from small in­di­vid­ual pro­duc­ers, matched with a lovely wine bar menu, Lucinda O’Sul­li­van finds Green Man Wines is a great ad­di­tion to the Dublin sub­urb of Terenure

Sunday Independent (Ireland) - Life - - FRONT PAGE -

There’s some­thing very civilised about hav­ing a nib­ble, on a balmy sum­mer evening, sur­rounded by lots of lovely bot­tles of wine! Green Man Wines is a great ad­di­tion to the Dublin sub­urb of Terenure, which, it has to be said, with a few ex­cep­tions, is not one of the best din­ing des­ti­na­tions in the city.

The hus­band-and-wife team be­hind this ven­ture have been steeped in the world of wine, if you will for­give the pun, for many years. David Gal­lagher’s ca­reer has seen him as man­ager of wine mer­chants Berry Bros & Rudd, and more re­cently at Fal­lon & Byrne’s wine cel­lar, while Claire O’Boyle Gal­lagher is a mem­ber of Pas­cal Ros­sig­nol’s Kilkenny-based Le Caveau team, who im­port many great wines into Ire­land. Claire was also a reg­u­lar lec­turer for the Wine Board of Ire­land. The duo spe­cialise in wines made by ar­ti­san grow­ers, many of whom farm and pro­duce their wines or­gan­i­cally, bio­dy­nam­i­cally and nat­u­rally.

They also have a se­ri­ous team of in­ter­est­ing food, wine and event pro­fes­sion­als on board. Lori Nardone, the gen­eral man­ager, has been in event and hos­pi­tal­ity man­age­ment, while the head chef, Se­bas­tian Sanz, has worked all over Europe, in­clud­ing at Fer­ran Adria’s el Bulli, and more re­cently at Dublin’s Las Ta­pas de Lola. He, we are told, is pas­sion­ate about gen­er­at­ing max­i­mum flavour from ex­cel­lent raw in­gre­di­ents, and he cer­tainly achieved this with a beef dish we ex­pe­ri­enced. On the floor were Ma­tus Jus cak, for­merly of Fal­lon & Byrne, and Tina Ior lano, who pre­vi­ously worked at Thorn­ton’s on St Stephen’s Green.

The look and style of the shop is cool and con­tem­po­rary, with a cou­ple of small ta­bles in the front win­dow. The main wine bar/ din­ing area is through an arch­way, with a bright sec­tion to the front, and a more in­ti­mate area lead­ing off it. The menu con­sists of char­cu­terie, cheese and smoked fish boards, along with some re­ally good ta­pas-style cold plates that we thought were very good value, priced from €4–€16. Smoked duck ma­gret with bread comes in at €6.50; as does a spicy half chorizo sausage, with olives and bread. Ja­mon Iberico, with pi­cos, was there at €15; while chicken liver pate, with fig chut­ney, was €9.50.

We or­dered three dishes to share, in­clud­ing fuet (€5.50), an ex­cel­lent Cata­lan dry-cured pork sausage, served in one piece, with a bowl of lovely mixed olives and bread. A plate of beef fil­let tira­dito (€9.50) proved to be a lit­tle stun­ner. Peru­vian-style tira­dito is a bit like the Ital­ian carpac­cio or tagli­ata — beef, lightly seared on the out­side, sliced and served on the bluer side of blue! Not for the faint-hearted, but it is a very pop­u­lar dish world­wide. Here, the sliced beef, bathed in olive oil, had a won­der­ful flavour, and was topped with mixed leaves and a soft poached egg. Our third plate sported a quar­tet of large gam­bas (€13), lined up ‘spoon style’ on a slate, in­ter­min­gled with thin le­mon slices, radish wafers and a le­mon aioli. It was a per­fect light dish for a sum­mer’s evening.

Mov­ing on, Mary had a rich, dense or­ange-and-cho­co­late mousse, topped with or­ange seg­ments and served in a jar. It was di­vine, and a ver­i­ta­ble steal at €5.50. I loved my plate of manchego cheese (€5.50), served Span­ish style, with a dish of honey, and ar­ti­san bis­cuits.

When it comes to wine, you can pick a bot­tle from the shop shelves and pay cork­age of €8 to drink it in the wine bar. Al­ter­na­tively, you can choose from their wine list, which is priced on the same ba­sis. So, with a de­li­cious bot­tle of crisp and tangy Sal­a­dini Pi­las­tri Fa­le­rio 2014, from the Ital­ian Marche re­gion (€24), and two espres­sos (€6), our bill, with op­tional ser­vice, came to €76. A Green Man Wines, 3 Terenure Road North, Terenure, Dublin 6 Tel: (01) 559-4235 green­man­wines.ie

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