Sunday Independent (Ireland)

The social drinker

- Tom Molloy

Guinness is the iPhone of stouts. It’s an excellent product combined with clever advertisin­g that it is not quite as brilliant as it likes to think, but still better than the opposition. For doubters, there are plenty of good alternativ­es, if they want to try something new this St Patrick’s Day.

The Samsung of the porter world is probably Cork-based Murphy’s; a porter that is both lighter and sweeter than Guinness. Some claim to detect chocolate, coffee and caramel tastes — which seems to me to be stretching things, but the flavour is definitely less bitter than Guinness. Beamish — which, like Murphy’s, is brewed by Heineken in Cork — is another credible rival to Guinness that is slightly lighter, and has a bitterswee­t flavour that lies somewhere between Guinness and Murphy’s.

A creature of habit when it comes to porter, I must admit that I rarely drink either Murphy’s or Beamish, but I do try to make a point of ordering O’Hara’s if it is available. This has probably less to do with the roasty, hop taste than a long-standing affection for the Carlow Brewing Company, which has done so much to break the strangleho­ld on the market that was once enjoyed by this country’s big brewers.

Having said all that, one of the best challenges to Guinness these days comes the Guinness brewery itself: West Indies Porter. Brewed with more hops than ordinary Guinness, it’s based on an 18th-Century recipe intended to create a porter that would survive long sea journeys and retain its flavour in warm climates.

A glass or two of any stout that is not your usual will probably do little to persuade you to change, but it should at least remind you why you have a favourite porter in the first place. A bit like using somebody else’s smartphone. An interestin­g experiment for an hour or two, but rarely satisfacto­ry over the long term.

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