Jet-set Irish refining their taste buds
From expensive wine to artisan dishes, we are now opting for life’s finer options, writes Niamh Horan
EPICURUS, the Greek philosopher and proponent of all things pleasurable, once reasoned that: “[The wise man] chooses not the greatest quantity of food but the most pleasant.”
And it seems the Irish are finally cottoning on.
As 14 Irish restaurants make this year’s Michelin star’s list, restaurateurs say our palates have become far more gnostic than in the Celtic Tiger years.
Patrick Guilbaud, Heron & Grey and The Greenhouse — which all retained their stars — say they are noticing a big change in post-boom customers.
Patrick Guilbaud has described how diners at his famed two-star restaurant are still willing to spend but, he says, they have become “a lot more discerning” with their money.
“People were a little foolish back [in the Tiger years],” he says. “They didn’t understand the value of things.
“They are far more educated now in food and wine and don’t feel the need to flash their cash around.
“They will still spend it but you won’t see them throwing it away.
“Their attitude now is the way it should have always been. They understand [the product] and are prepared to pay when it’s good.”
With a rise in the popularity of culinary travel, the Irish have the gastronomic expertise and sommelier skills to justify this expensive taste.
“Travelling the world — France, Spain, Italy — means customers have developed a great understanding,” says Patrick. “They are good with their wines.”
Martina Carolan, of Peploe’s St Stephen’s Green restaurant, agrees. “They are buying nice wine for themselves at home so they know the pricing.
“They are also looking more and more for seasonal ingredients and when they are out they want to experiment. They instantly recognise good quality too.
“As soon as they spotted our 45-day aged rib recently for example, it flew out the door.”
She says Christmas bookings “have taken off. “We opened our reservations on September 1 but have been getting calls since March last year.
“Most Fridays and Saturdays [in December] are booked out for lunch and dinner so there is certainly a nice pace to it.”
Blackrock’s Heron & Grey, the Michelin-starred eaterie that seats only 22, open their bookings on the first of each month to give everyone a chance. December bookings, which go on sale at 10am on November 1, “will be gone in minutes,” says Andrew Grey.
“There is a boom in quality in Ireland at the moment,” he says.
On the customer’s side of the table, he adds, “there is definitely more knowledge. When the crash hit, it made everyone look at what they were spending their money on.”
Of their tight guest list, he says: “There is only one sitting per night — we don’t ask people to leave — and only open three nights a week. In the week leading up to Christmas we will up that to four.”
Meanwhile, over in The Ivy, staff have seen a change in our attitude towards alcohol. “People are more sensible in the amount they drink and are opting for better quality,” explains manager Jamie Belton.
“So rather than drink more over the course of the night they have a few glasses but of very, very good wine.” He says: “Millennials are more outdoorsy than previous generations too. They rock climb and hill walk on a Sunday and want to get up the next day with a fresh head so they won’t drink as much.
“Among that group our non-alcoholic gin and tonic [€8 a glass] and saltedcaramel espresso martinis are doing well.”
Christmas bookings at the restaurant are also being snapped up. “Tables for Christmas Eve have sold out for breakfast and brunch and the Black Fridays are heavily booked too — that’s December 7 and 14. We are taking bigger group bookings [for over 12 people] every two hours because we don’t want to turn anybody away.
“There is certainly a lot more confidence out there,” says Jamie. “People are going out more on Sundays and I never expected such an interest in ‘all-day’ dining.”
He name-checks Dublin 2 and Dublin’s creative quarter — which takes in South William Street to George’s Street and Lower Stephen’s Street to Exchequer Street — as performing exceptionally well.
“All my friends in the other restaurants are very happy with how business is going. There’s a feel-good atmosphere on the street.”
On George’s Street, the latest in-demand eaterie for foodies, Pi restaurant, has also reported record sales after bringing in quality ingredients such as Gubbeen chorizo, hen of the woods mushrooms and nduja for Dubliners’ palates, while on Camden Street Delahunt is noticing a spike in interest following a visit from Prince Harry and Meghan Markle.
‘They drink less over the night but will have very, very good wine’