Super soups

If you’re in need of comfort, says Rachel Allen, then whip up a big bowl of warmth and nourishment

“Harira, a Muslim staple to break the daily fast of Ramadan, is a comfortingly fulfilling soup just perfect as a hearty lunch or supper”

The ultimate in comfort food, soup is just what I long for at this time of the year. Either chunky and brothy or silky and smooth, a big bowl of steaming hot soup can restore and nurture like no other plate of food.

I first came across laksa when travellling around south-east Asia many years ago. A hearty Indonesian soup that contains everything from chicken and shrimps to pork and noodles, the delicious version pictured here is by Rosemary O’Sullivan, who used to teach at the cookery school. She is a great friend who uses heaps of coriander, but it is worth every leaf. Check out your closest Asian food shop for big bunches of the herb, and if you have them, the roots can be used too.

For a gorgeously green seasonal number, try this spinach and rosemary soup recipe. Make sure to lock in the fresh verdant colour and flavour by liquidising it as soon as it’s cooked, and when reheating, don’t allow it to simmer for longer than a minute or two.

a Muslim staple to break the daily fast of Ramadan, is a comfortingly fulfilling soup, just perfect as a hearty lunch or supper. With chickpeas, lentils and lots of warming spices, this is a soup that’s worth making in a big batch and reheating when you need it. I love to serve it in big deep bowls with a scattering of crusty bread chunks and a generous drizzle of peppery olive oil. Now that’s what I call a hug in a bowl.