Amuse bouche... End of an era

‘S mall plates are what they say people want now,” Pierre told the assembled Kinsella family, who had come for one last meal at his French restaurant before it closed.

“They don’t want the proper meal any more, and they don’t want the fella like me telling them what to do. It’s all changed. It’s time to go.”

The Kinsellas all said it was a shame, that Pierre’s Place was still their favourite restaurant, that nothing would ever replace it for them.

It was true that nothing would ever replace Pierre’s Place for the Kinsellas. Not for big family occasions, anyway. But how many of those did the Kinsellas really have any more?

The Kinsellas had been coming to Pierre’s Place for 35 of the 40 years it had been open. Paul Kinsella, head of the family now, had come here with his parents for years when he was in his teens.

Then they’d bring him for a treat when he was in college. All the big dinners were had in Pierre’s Place — 21sts, his parents’ wedding anniversaries, celebrations of engagements.

Paul had been boring his own kids for two decades about how Pierre brought real French food to Dublin.

“When no one knew their arse from their escargots, yes, Dad, we think you’ve told us,” the three Kinsella children, now ranging in age from 16 to 20, would chime.

But they loved Pierre’s. All of them. The kids had always asked to go there for their birthdays, and after their Kinsella grandparents had died, they had all dined at Pierre’s and warmly toasted them.

The Kinsellas were genuinely sad that Pierre’s Place was closing. Still, they had only booked tonight’s dinner because they’d heard it was closing. They hadn’t been in a while; Pierre had commented on as much when they had arrived.

They’d found other places to eat and celebrate. Places close to home to which they could walk and have a glass of wine; no more driving home a bit tipsy from town. And spicy; the kids all liked spicy these days.

“You’ll be gone by the time Paul Junior’s 21st comes around in June,” said Claire, sadly.

“Mon dieu,” said Pierre, “What will you do instead, my young friend?”

“Um, we could go to Ennui,” Paul Junior said, without looking up from his phone. “Ah, French?” asked Pierre. “Not really,” answered Paul Junior. “Small plates?” asked Pierre. “Um, yes,” said Paul, finding the good grace to both look up and look embarrassed.

“Quelle surprise,” said Pierre.