Ladies’ day: top Irish talents raise the bar
IN opening the recent annual Irish Fashion Exposure show, long-time supporter of Irish design Constance Harris declared: “Fashion reflects who we are. We in Ireland have a very strong voice. We dress in a way that is feminine, and beautiful.” The audience in front of her, she pointed out, reflected just this.
Which indeed they did. Print and colour were the order of the day, both among the guests and on the catwalk.
Now in its 11th year, the event, which is produced by Fiona Foy Holland and is in aid of St Lazarus Ireland, is one of the highlights of the Irish fashion year, and one of the most important platforms for showcasing the work of Irish designers — both established and new talent.
This season’s show, styled by Sarah Rickard, included work by 11 clothes designers, as well as by a number of accessory designers.
“Not only was it an all-Irish lineup this year, but it was an all-female one. I’m really proud of that,” says Rickard, “and of the spectrum of design among those female designers. It wasn’t all commercial or occasion wear — you had designers who are pushing it, those who are avant garde, as well as commercial designers who are at the top of their game. The bar is so high when it comes to these designers.”
The show opened with the incredibly creative rising star Katie Ann McGuigan, fresh from her success at London Fashion Week. Fiona Heaney’s label Fee G drew some of the strongest reaction from the assembly. This season she has used particularly bold colour combinations and print — her houndstooth pink, red and navy coat, and red and pink leopard-print dress. These sit alongside the more romantic midi-dresses she is becoming known for — such as a grey tulle dress with silver stars.
Niamh O’Neill’s belted A-line tweed dress is one of the standouts in a season of good dresses. Her cropped-leg jumpsuit in navy with butterfly print was another perfect example of her chic take on classic tailoring, sort of Audrey Hepburn with a modern feel. Jennifer Rothwell’s designs provided as always a moment of drama: prints featuring all the colours of a peacock’s feathers, silhouettes that teamed flattering draping with fitted tailored pieces, and a striking gold sequinned backless dress with a feathered neckpiece which drew gasps from the crowd.
Caroline Kilkenny’s ability to create cleverly draped and cut pieces gets more interesting each season, particularly with the addition of her second line, Sisters by CK, whose party dresses are for those who want something a little more interesting than what the high street has to offer.
Sarah Murphy’s pretty but gothic dresses are perfect for this season’s 1980s grunge trend. Laura Chambers showed her beautiful colour-blocked cashmeres in softly tailored silhouettes. Alison Conneely and Roisin Gartland both have a hugely impressive ability for making deceptively simple pieces in the most luxurious fabrics and bold colours: Conneely’s mohair in coral, Gartland’s mustard orange suede. Cairenn Foy is a new luxury children’s label which uses only breathable fabrics; Cairenn began designing these traditional styles after failing to find anything suitable for her own daughter, who has eczema.
Claire O’Connor finished out the show with a striking collection of evening gowns showcasing her trademark combination of fantasy, drama and quirkiness — with the addition of cleverly made headpieces. Most notable were a black leather jacket over a delicate lilac silk satin, a beautifully simple white evening dress which would make a wonderful wedding dress, and a pink tiered ball gown.
“This show is about celebrating women in Irish fashion, and women designing for women. Irish fashion has migrated from event wear into working women’s wear, and women in business,” concludes Fiona Foy Holland. “It’s still very feminine, but is also sustainable and hard-working fashion. It’s not just the dress for the wedding, we’ve moved beyond that.
“With this show we go on a journey with Irish fashion, from Katie Ann McGuigan, whose clothes are like armour, with an urban warrior but also a Celtic feel, but then you move on to Sarah Murphy, which has all the softness of Irish design and knits.
“It’s a journey of Irish fashion, from contemporary and very forward fashion, to things that we need, and sustainable fashion. You’re not buying fast fashion here, you’re buying something to love, to have for a very long time.”