Social Drinker
Dessert wines are not just for Christmas
Sometimes there is nothing nicer than a slab of Danish blue or Roquefort, a few crackers and a glass of wine. Blue cheese is one of those unusual foods that goes as well with certain red wines as it does with certain whites.
The classic pairing with Roquefort is a sweet white Sauternes from Bordeaux, which is one of the world’s great dessert wines. When Napoleon III ordered the classification of the best Bordeaux wines in 1855, 11 of the 16 vineyards awarded the top first growth rating were from the area, including a whole new classification that was invented for the legendary Chateau d’Yquem.
Like Roquefort, the dessert wine is made using fungi, which lends the wines a special flavour. Other magnificent botrytised dessert wines include Tokaji from Hungary and Trockenbeerenauslese from Germany or Austria.
All these wines require certain climatic and topographic conditions for a fungi called botrytis cinerea to prosper and then attack the grapes in a process often called ‘noble rot’ — this creates an intense but not cloying sweetness that contrasts with the distinctive sharp tang of blue cheese.
For those who want an alternative, port is ideal. Many people seem to regard port as a Christmas drink, but it is a lovely summer drink, and perfect with fresh figs and cheese. A ruby port or even a vintage port is your best bet. Port can be difficult to find in supermarkets at this time of year, but most off-licences have it. If you are lucky, they might also have white port, which makes a refreshing drink when mixed with tonic water, ice and a peel of lemon.
Finally, sherry is a great accompaniment to blue cheese. I prefer a dry Oloroso or Amontillado — these have a little more fruit than the more common Fino sherry. Sherry can be as complex and expensive as you want, but I find the range sold by Tesco under its Finest label to be a very good starting point. But whatever sherry you choose, it will be an excellent foil to the weird and wonderful taste of blue cheese.