Foodie renaissance takes hold from capital to Kingdom
AS businesses all around Ireland continue to find their footing in these uncertain times, I spoke with four more food and hospitality insiders.
Tom and Laura Sinnott’s Wexford Home Preserves, originally run by Tom’s aunt, has been on the go since 1988. Their products are all made by hand in small batches, and they’ve developed their ranges to cater for ever-changing tastes along with keeping old favourites. I particularly love their Sicilian Lemon Marmalade.
When Covid-19 struck, they lost all of their food service business, a big hit as it made up 20pc of their sales. Laura found herself at home, schooling two young children, alongside trying to run the business with Tom, who was looking after things in the WHP kitchen, introducing the required safety precautions.
“We’re now thinking ahead, and, with the help of Bord Bia and a MAPS grant, we’re giving our website a new look, adding an online shop, and also focusing heavily on our social media presence,” she says.
“We launched a quartet of new Irish chutneys in June, under the Simply Better label with Dunnes Stores, which are selling extremely well, so this has been a huge help, too.”
Laura says that, being small, they’re agile enough to adapt their business.
“Having an artisan ethos around how we make our products and lots of integrity in our ingredients helps us to stand out. We’re determined to keep making the best preserves we can.” wexfordpreserves.ie
Having been founded by Erwin Kingston’s great-grandfather John Sheehan, the family have been trading (originally as a drapers) on Market Street in Killorglin, Co Kerry, since 1889. Still going strong today, Kingston’s is a traditional pub which now also has a smart 12-bedroom boutique townhouse next door, boasting superb facilities.
“They say in life, when a door closes, a window opens,” says Erwin. “And while Covid-19 slammed our doors, it opened a very big window in the form of the new addition to our business — artisan Italian stone-fired pizzas. We knew if we did not adapt, our business would suffer.”
Erwin had always wanted to introduce casual dining, but it was important that the choice of cuisine would complement the traditional pub.
“I didn’t want to do anything to lose my family’s legmenus acy,” he says. Being hospitality trained, he went about researching pizzas thoroughly, adopting an old Neapolitan style of dough which is made over a three-day process. They also use local artisan suppliers for their cheeses and toppings.
“Our clientele ranges from corporate, working with many local businesses such as Fexco, Astellas, Promed and Temmler, to adventure travellers who enjoy our outdoor ‘Reeks’ playground, the Ring of Kerry and the Wild Atlantic Way. We’re delighted to have our doors back open, welcoming in old friends and new ones.” kingstonstownhouse.com
THE RESTAURANT
Nisheeth Tak is the man behind Rasam Indian Restaurant in Glasthule, Co Dublin, a popular spot with many of our celebrities, from Miriam O’Callaghan to Pat Kenny to Chris de Burgh, not to mention famous sporting faces and the odd billionaire as well.
The quietly spoken Nisheeth, who also worked at the famous Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Mumbai, is also the man who changed the face of Indian dining in Ireland, moving it forward some years ago to the lighter contemporary style we’re familiar with nowadays. When Covid-19 struck, Nisheeth sprang into action.
“We had loads of good wishes, cards, text messages, and even our landlord deferred the rent payment. The wage subsidy helped us to keep all the chefs on the payroll and we were able to maintain our high standards,” he says.
He also engaged a specialist to help redesign the restaurant to comply with Covid regulations. ‘Hands-free’ foot pedals from openclean.ie in Cork are in all the toilets, sanitisers go from the front door to the back of the house, and are disposable. Cutlery and glassware are polished by special super-hygienic machines from the Kerry-based ghenterprises.ie.
“We had 100 seats before and now have 55. Customer reaction has been super positive. Some even suggested that we keep the screens on tables, even after it’s all over,” he says.
“Every table and chair is thoroughly cleaned after every sitting. We opted for face masks instead of shields because they provide a superior protection.”
Nothing is left to chance with Nisheeth — which is why he is so successful. rasam.ie
Buswells Hotel on the corner of Molesworth Street and Kildare Street in Dublin reminds me of those superb small hotels you find just off the Champs Elysees and Avenue Montaigne area of Paris. They’re at the heart of highend shopping, restaurants, galleries, and, in Buswells’ case, the seat of government, Dáil Éireann, across the road. No doubt many a big deal has been settled in Buswells’ bar down the years.
On reopening after lockdown, with a considerable sense of humour, GM Paul Gallagher put out a board saying “customers wanted, no experience necessary”. Unfortunately, with the streets of our capital essentially deserted, hotels across Dublin know exactly what he means.
“You could nearly park your car on Grafton Street, hop into Brown Thomas to do some shopping, come back out and not have been noticed!” he says wryly. “Hotel occupancy in August is 15pc compared with 95pc last year, and restaurants are empty.”
Like all Dublin hotels, Buswells derives nearly 70pc of its business from overseas, particularly the valuable North American market.
“The support the Government set out in the July stimulus is simply insufficient. The Employment Wage Subsidy Scheme is welcome, but its reduction to a flat payment of €203 per employee from September to March means that my particular hotel will have to top up salaries during that period by an additional €120,000,” says Paul.
“The Government must consult with the industry and put in place well thoughtthrough pro-tourism policies. Time is running out.”
It’s the time to come to Dublin for a break, with great prices everywhere.
Buswells has rates of €125 for B&B for two people, and more great rates coming for autumn. buswells.ie