The Argus

Manual gives you total control

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M for Manual.

Ok this week we are going to go for ‘Manual’!! We will look at the manual settings on DSLRs, some of which are available on smart phones.

Some people find this step a ‘step too far’ but when you get used to it, it will be very hard to go back to automatic or semi-automatic.

In Manual we control everything, compared to Aperture Priority where we control the aperture and the camera controls the shutter speed and Shutter Speed Priority where we control the Shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture.

For calculatin­g the correct exposure, our camera has a built in light meter.

In the semi-automatic modes we tend not to see a ‘meter’ just the readings the camera is setting along with the ones we have selected in Aperture Priority or Shutter Speed Priority.

The meter indicates to us whether we are over or under exposed by displaying dots going down to the minus (under exposed or dark) or to the plus (overexpose­d or bright). This allows us to either deliberate­ly make an image bright or dark as we wish.

In manual mode the basic entry level DSLR cameras only have one rotary button, either on the top (Canon) or the top back RHS (Nikon) to control the shutter speed setting. Rotate the button and you’ll see the shutter speed change.

The EV button, used to change exposure values in the semi-automatic modes is now used to change the aperture. Press and hold the EV button (the button with plus and minus on it) and at the same time rotate the rotary button. This will now change your aperture.

When you adjust both these settings you will see the dots in the light meter illustrati­on change on the back of your camera and inside the viewfinder. I would always try to get used to using the meter in the viewfinder as this means you don’t have to take the camera down from your eye to check the metering.

Another thing to watch out for here is a very common error where people look to check the meter while pointing the camera at the ground. If you do this you are metering for the ‘ground’ and when you come to make your picture your exposure will be probably incorrect leading to an over or under exposed image.

Always point the camera at the subject while metering. Practice changing your camera settings through your viewfinder. It will take some time to get used to where all the buttons are but it is worth it, just like the first time you tried to drive a car the pedals and gear stick were very awkward but becomes easier as you practice.

Some of the more advanced DSLR cameras and therefore more expensive ones have a front and rear button allowing you to change aperture with the front one and the shutter speed with the back one. Again, practice changing your settings with the camera up to your eye and pointing at your subject. Speed will come in time.

What tips have I got to assist you in transferri­ng to Manual Mode?

When I’m about to cover an assignment I set my camera before I start, just as I’m leaving my car. I decide what type of pictures I’m hoping to make and set my camera accordingl­y. This helps eliminate possible errors that could happen if you get nervous. (Note: If you are any way nervous and think you might forget settings, write them down on a piece of card and have them in your camera bag.)

Let’s go over some of the ‘Rules of Thumb’ we have already discussed in previous tips. If I’m going to cover a sports event outside I will always start with setting my shutter speed to 1/500th of a second or faster (depending on the quantity of light) and then set my aperture to balance my light meter to the middle, for the perfect exposure.

Remember to stop movement use 1/500th of a second or faster. For sport I would usually use a longer focal length lens, anything from a 200mm to a 400mm. This gets you closer to the action and assists with getting that perfect picture.

Kit lenses can also be used where you are able to be closer to the action such as athletics, cross country etc and allows for wider angled shots from different perspectiv­es.

One of the techniques I like to use is panning. This is where you are using a slower shutter speed usually from a 30th or a 60th of a second. But how does this technique stop movement?

The theory behind panning is that you are moving with the subject as it passes and taking pictures at the same time. This keeps the subject sharp and blurs the background. It is a difficult technique but so worthwhile when you achieve a great image.

If I was going to take portraits or cover an event such as a conformati­on or wedding outdoors I would set my aperture firstly. This would depend if I wanted to blur the background or keep the background in focus. To blur the background I would set my camera to a small f Stop number such as f4 or f5.6 and then adjust the shutter speed to balance out the meter by changing the shutter speed. If I wanted to keep more of the background in focus I would use f8 or f11 and then balance my meter by again changing the shutter speed.

Rule of Thumb: Depth of Field, (how much of the picture appears in focus in front and behind the subject) for small DOF use a small f stop number (e.g. f4-f5.6 Only the subject appears in focus) and for larger DOF (f11-f16 keeps most of the picture sharp with detail).

One point to remember as well is not to allow the shutter speed to go below a 30th of a second as you may get movement or blur depending if you or your subject is moving.

So, if we are setting our cameras and can’t achieve the correct shutter speed, what can we do to get that shutter speed? This is where ISO comes in. As I stated in earlier tips ISO is used to increase or lower the sensitivit­y of the camera sensor to light. If we need to get the camera to a higher shutter speed simply raise the ISO.

The ISO can be found in the menu items list on entry level cameras and usually has a specific button on the more expensive cameras.

I usually set my ISO to 400 which is ideal for most events. For poorer weather you could select 800, 1600 or even 3200 ISO. BUT REMEMBER the higher you go with your ISO the more noise you will introduce to your images.

So ‘ till next week, enjoy your camera and stay safe.

 ??  ?? Local boats competing during the Autumn Cup for J24’s held in Carlingfor­d Lough which is the last qualifier for the Republic of Ireland team which will take part in the World Championsh­ips in England next year.
Local boats competing during the Autumn Cup for J24’s held in Carlingfor­d Lough which is the last qualifier for the Republic of Ireland team which will take part in the World Championsh­ips in England next year.
 ??  ?? Changing the aperture in manual mode.
A camera light meter.
Changing the aperture in manual mode. A camera light meter.
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