The historic gems of NORTH KERRY
awaiting exploration
Ardfert Cathedral and Franciscan Friary A shrine to Kerry’s ecclesiastical past
A short drive north of Tralee is the village of Ardfert where the visitor will find one of the most beautiful and impressively restored examples of our ecclesiastical heritage. Ardfert cathedral’s elongated windows denote its early gothic style, while its imposing Romanesque west doorway, in chevron design, is a beautiful example of Anglo-Norman architecture. In fact, Ardfert Cathedral is a fusion of architectural styles and designs that stretch from the 12th to 17th Century and has two beautifully restored later medieval churches on site. This is a must for any visitor to Kerry interested in medieval history.
The nearby Franciscan Friary is another treat with its beautiful example of a preserved cloister area. You will also see some stunning gothic arches juxtaposed with Romanesque style arches and the Friary’s east window is worth the visit alone. In the 16th Century the Friary was used as a garrison by Elizabethan soldiers.
Rattoo is Kerry’s only surviving Round Tower
Even though Rattoo Round Tower is one of the less promoted tourist attractions in the county, it remains one of the most iconic symbols of Kerry. Build circa the 10th or 11th Century, this 27 metre high tower stands on an earlier 6th Century monastic settlement founded by Bishop Lughach. A 15th Century church is situated very near the tower, as is an old abbey a little bit further away.
The tower itself consists of a fine doorway situated above ground level and the conical shaped tower head is one of the few places in the county with a Sheela-na-gig: a crude and exaggerated stone effigy depicting female vulva.
While the tower itself cannot be scaled for safety reasons a visit is well worth it. The overall sense of antiquity in the area is striking and it is Kerry’s only surviving Round Tower. It’s close to the village of Ballyduff – which is along the Wild Atlantic Way – and a stop-off here is strongly advised.
The subterranean beauty of Crag Cave
Located just a short drive from Castleisland town is the timeless, subterranean beauty of Crag Cave which is Kerry and Ireland’s most popular cave open to the public. Back in 1983 a whole new world (quite literally) was opened up to the public when the cave was discovered under the farmland of the Geaney family.
Ever since it has become a focal point for tourists in north Kerry and beyond. The magic of this world of stalagmites and stalactites needs to be experienced to be believed and Crag Cave has carefully fostered its tourist season into off-peak through the incorporation of birthday parties and an exciting Christmas wonderland.
Estimated to be well over one million years old, a guided tour of the cave lasts approximately 30 minutes and is really out of this world on every level. The staff and guides, as ever, are extremely friendly at Crag Cave. So, whether you’re a committed geologist, someone with an imagination for the underworld, or just an adventurer at heart, make Crag Cave your next port of call.
Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse and Jail
If you ever paused to wonder how harsh life was in olden times, thenhen you’re in for a treat at Tarbert Bridewell Visitor Centre. Set in the northern coastline of northorth Kerry, you will be transported back to the chilling 1830s experiencing the horror andnd hardship of life in an Irish Goal. Here you’ll experience an authentic 1830s Jail and witness a courthouse drama and swift execution of justice as cruel punishmentment was the order of the day in 1800s Ireland.
Tarbert Bridewell was built in 1831 and the elegantly cut limestone exterior terior stands as a tribute to the fine craftsmen of the early nineteenth century.y. As part of your visit to Tarbert Bridewell, you will experience an arrest scene, ne, prison cells, keeper’s quarters, exercise yards and courtroom scenes. s. And when all that’s done, you can enjoy a welcome return to 21st Century - leisure time in the adjoining coffee and gift shop. “A time not to be forgotten and never to be repeated” is how one might describe the Tarbert Bridewell experience.
Also, when finished with the jail, be sure visit ‘ The McGreevy Room’ which houses a selection of historic documents and personal papers on the life and times of Thomas McGreevy who was born in Tarbert in 1893 and became a published poet, art and literary critic.
Listowel ~ where a river of words strikes the write note
The Feale River flows by Listowel and has been a source of inspiration for the town and its people for generations. Listowel is a literary oasis and a catchment area for some of the world’s best scribes. The Seanchaí Kerry Writers’ Museum is housed in a beautiful 19th Century residents. Listowel Writers’ Week now attracts visitors from all over the word every June Bank Holiday, while St John’s Theatre and Arts Centre is the stitch that holds the arts fabric together all year round in Listowel. One week every September is bookended by the famous Listowel Races. Listowel Town itself has much to offer in terms of restaurants, shops and bars. A beautiful Town Park is a feature, as is the River Feale Walkway – long a source of inspiration for writers in the locality. There’s the wonderful fortress of Listowel Castle, Listowel Military Museum, Lartigue Monorail and The Garden of Europe. Listowel’s wonderfully quaint and charming shopfronts is another characteristic to savour.
The heritage of Ballylongford on the Wild Atlantic Way
Ballylongford has many strings to its cultural bow and has recently established itself as a major historic ‘stop-off ’ along the Wild Atlantic Way. This makes sense when one considers all this tiny crossroads in north Kerry has to offer the curious visitor. It’s home to one of Ireland and the world’s greatest poets, Brendan Kennelly; there’s the beautiful St Michael’s Church; medieval Lislaughtin and its Abbey window; enchanting Carrigafoyle Castle; the Proclamation Garden, the 19th Century coastal battery - once a place on high alert to repel an invasion by Napoleon; the Blue Light Church – a symbol of local folklore; Aghavallen Church and Graveyard – where Lord Kitchener was baptised in 1851. Even the village crossroads in Ballylongford is in itself a charming site to behold for visitors. Ballylongford is a destination well worth exploring on the Wild Atlantic Way.
Follow the path of Roger Casement…
Roger Casement is arguably the 20th Century’s foremost humanitarian who travelled the depths of the Congo and South America during his lifetime exposing the horrors and suffering of native tribes at the hands of colonialism. It’s incredible to think, given the extent of Casement’s travels, that his last adventure in life should be among the windswept sand dunes of Banna in north Kerry.
Ever since President Michael D. Higgins visited Ardfert and Banna Strand to mark the 100th anniversary of Casement’s ill-fated landing in 2016, there has been a major boost in visitor numbers anxious to trace the last steps of Casement as a free man.
President Higgins unveiled a special commemorative stone to Casement in Ardfert Village - the place where the boat Casement rowed ashore in was photographed outside the RIC Barracks in April, 1916. Visitors now flock to Banna Strand to trace Casement’s steps from the shoreline to a short distance away at McKenna’s Fort where he hid until captured a few hours after landing. Retracing this journey is well worth the effort when next in north Kerry.