Duhallow’s deep wells of time
SOME SEVEN WELLS DOT THE LANDSCAPE OF THE REGION, SOME WITH HISTORIES GOING BACK BEYOND CHRISTIANITY
DURING the month of May each year thousands of people flock to Holy Wells all over Ireland to ‘ do the rounds’. In the Barony of Duhallow, we are blessed to have no fewer than seven of these sacred places of worship, all dating from thousands of years ago.
Even though the feast days of some of the Saints fall on different dates during the year, the May visit seems to be an important focus for most pilgrims.
This year, due to the Covid-19 restrictions, these holy sites have been literally deserted but since phase one of the exit from lockdown came into play two weeks ago, families have been making the most of the final two weeks in the month to ‘do the rounds’ at their favourite Well.
What is very interesting with regard to our Duhallow Wells is that history tells us that five from the one family founded churches and Wells - St. Laitiarnan, St. Inghne Buidhne, St. Lassar, St. Berechert and St. John.
The Wells associated with the three sisters are within a short distance of each other. Saint Laitiarnan lived in Cullen, Saint Inghne Buidhne in Dromtariffe, while St. Lassar is associated with Kilessaragh in the parish of Boherbue.
Historical accounts of Saint Laitiarnan and her holy well can be traced back to the fifth century. She may well have been a member of a community. Tradition has it that Laitiarnan and her sisters met for prayer or mediation weekly in difficult times and that on one occasion a group of angels appeared to them and prepared paths for them to travel between Cullen, Dromtarriffe and Kilmeen.
In Cullen, ruins near Laitiarnan’s Well indicate where a church once stood and many cures are recorded as having taken place there.
On May 6th, Dromtariffe people traditionally celebrate ‘Well Day’. The site of Saint Inghne Buidhne’s Well is situated near the former church and graveyard. In the latter part of the 19th Century and early years of the 20th Century, people flocked to this well from all over Muskerry and Duhallow, on bicycles, horses, carriages and carts.
Tradition was fulfilled by the reciting of decades of the Rosary while walking clockwise round the well. The water was sampled and was credited for cures.
After ‘doing the rounds’ people enjoyed music and dancing as well as meeting up with friends, relatives, and neighbours.
Trinity Well, dedicated to the Blessed Trinity and also sometimes associated with St. Lassar, can be found in Newmarket approximately 1.5km west of the town. This Well was built inside what was used earlier as a fulacht fiadh, an ancient Bronze Age cooking area.
Tullylease, meanwhile, boasts two Wells - St. Ben’s and St. Mary’s.
The feast of St. Berechert, who dates from the 6th Century, is known locally as Well Day or St. Ben’s Day and attracts visitors from far and near. Mass is celebrated in St. Berechert’s Church and then the ‘rounds’ are done. The monastery that developed here was said to be a seat of great learning. Scholars came from near and far but, as there was no formal accommodation, had to build their own huts by clearing the forest around – hence the name of the village: tulach leis – the hill of the huts.
In the field adjoining St. Berechert’s National School is the ‘Deer Stone’ or ‘Cloch na hEilte’ which is reputed to have a cure for headaches.
St Mary’s well is in the Townland of Poulavere. Legend has it that the Well was originally a baptistery but when Cromwell came to the area it was granted to one of the Roundheads. The Well was lined with oak planks and sheeted with lead. The Cromwellian decided to steal the lead from the well to sell it but when he put his hand in his fingers fell off!
People with devotion to St. John visit Mushera Mountain between Millstreet and Macroom. This
Well was the site of enormous pilgrimage every year on St. John’s Eve, June 23rd. As with many of the Holy Wells, the water here has a reputation for healing illness and disease. In the early 1980s, Stations of the Cross were erected on the site, and along with the Well are indeed a magical and majestic sight at the summit of Mushera.
Tubrid Well is another favourite stopping off place in Millstreet. The traditonal round dates back into the dimness of history. It consists of three visits to the well any Thursday, Friday or Saturday in May. In doing the Rounds the people always turn sun-wise, that is from left to right. This custom is very ancient and like many others has descended from pagan to Christian times.
At Tubrid, many people have claimed to have been cured by the holy waters of the well Such is the story of the well and the faith of the people who pray here and at the many other similar sacred sites throughout Duhallow.