Forget the stinking shark meat: Iceland is foodie heaven
What comes to mind when you hear “Iceland”? Glaciers. Volcanoes. The Blue Lagoon. A craggy, rugged landscape lit up by the Northern Lights, punctuated by waterfalls and steaming pools.
The island’s natural beauty is renowned the world over. Icelandic food, on the other hand, doesn’t have the best reputation.
If you’ve watched any travel show that visits Iceland, you’ll have seen the host grimacing over hakarl – fermented Greenland shark.
So notorious is this delicacy that the late Anthony Bourdain declared it one of the most disgusting things he had ever tasted.
Other Icelandic dishes tourists tend to avoid include svith – half a sheep’s head split down the middle, boiled and served with mashed potatoes; and harthfiskur – fish so dried out that it appears almost mummified.
Preservation is an important part of the country’s flavours, which means many traditional foods are smoked, salted, cured, dried and fermented.
Modern day Iceland, however, is very different. Located only a few degrees south of the Arctic Circle, the harsh climate previously meant Icelanders depended heavily on subsistence farming.
Now, with imports, migration, tourism and everimproving agricultural technologies, the capital’s food scene is full of excitement, fresh flavours and techniques and a burgeoning sense of pride.
The culinary talent in Reykjavik started seeing exponential growth about 20 years ago, which was around the time accomplished chef Siggi Hall first launched the Food and Fun Festival.
The weeklong festival has chefs from all over the world taking over restaurants and creating dishes that take inspiration from their own cultures and experiences through Icelandic produce.
In 2017, the country gained its first Michelin star in Dill under chef Gunnar Karl Gislason’s stewardship, and has since been credited with paving the way for the rebranding of Icelandic cuisine.
Since then, Iceland has collected three Michelin stars and has four more restaurants recommended in the Michelin Guide, including Gislason’s newest gig at Tides, housed in the stylish fivestar Reykjavik Edition Hotel (editionhotels.com).
When visiting Reykjavik during the festival, I was initially unsure what to expect.
Would the emphasis be on more traditional elements? Would hakarl make an appearance on any of the menus?
Would I be offered whale or puffin meat?
You can find these highly contentious foods at a handful of restaurants in Reykjavik, such as at Grillmarkathurinn or 3 Frakkar.
But there was no hakarl, whale or puffin meat during the festival. Instead, the chefs made use of the abundant lamb and fish available to Iceland, as well as Icelandic moss and crowberries.
At Tides, I feasted on Arctic char cooked over an open fire with a south Turkish citrus sauce and an Aegeanstyle octopus with a perfectly crisp tentacle tip that gave way to a pleasant chewiness.
I also had the pleasure of dining at Brut, a powerhouse when it comes to awardwinning seafood dishes.
Headed by another former Dill chef, Ragnar Eiriksson, and sommelier Olafur Orn Olafsson, Brut’s relaxed atmosphere and open kitchen are inviting and friendly.
Contrasting textures and flavours ruled my night at Brut, with buttery cod juxtaposed with meaty, powerful monkfish.
Dining in Reyjkjavik is laidback, with people swanning in late for reservations. This singled me out as a tourist, as I was frequently one of only a handful of diners who turned up on time.
Following dinner, there’s no shortage of excellent drinking spots.
Rontgen Bar serves a mean Reykjavik Mule using the country’s signature alcohol, Brennivin; Vinstukan Tiu Sopar is a basement wine bar with good vibes; and Kaffibarinn is nice and cosy with a great selection of beers.
Tides: Headed by Michelinstarred chef Gunnar Karl Gislason, Tides prides itself on showcasing the best of Iceland’s produce.
Brut: Seafood plays an important role in Nordic cuisine, and this is one of the best places in Reykjavik to enjoy it.
Sumac: This Michelinrecommended restaurant is bringing Mediterranean flavours to Iceland with style. It was recently featured in the latest series of Somebody Feed Phil.
Baejarins Beztu Pylsur: Get in line for the famed Icelandic hot dogs, which are unusual as they incorporate lamb instead of the usual pork or beef.
Bernhoftsbakari: Iceland’s oldest bakery is well worth a visit, especially if you’re curious about traditional baked goods like Icelandic cheesecake, which is made with skyr, and Hjonabandssaela, a rhubarb jamfilled cake known as Marriage Cake.
Icelandair (icelandair.com) flies from Dublin to Reykjavik.
l See visiticeland.com