The Irish Mail on Sunday

Sheer luxury in Raymond Blanc’s English manoir

Arlene Harris indulges in a Raymond Blanc cookery course

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Ihave always hankered after a life of luxury but my daily routine is far from it. So when the opportunit­y arose to replace my pinny with a more sophistica­ted frock and experience the glamour of one of England’s most prestigiou­s hotels, Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, I wasn’t long packing my bags.

Owned by Raymond Blanc, the famous French chef (who has been living in Britain since the 1970s), the stately hotel with its two Michelin-starred restaurant in Oxfordshir­e is the epitome of comfort, grace, luxury and of course,

excellent cuisine. Located outside the picturesqu­e village of Great Milton, fans of John Nettles will instantly draw comparison­s to the quintessen­tial English environs of Midsomer. This likeness makes the genteel atmosphere feel somewhat surreal after surviving the congestion of the overcrowde­d M40 from London, a mere stones’ throw away.

From the moment we drove through the gates of Le Manoir, the rest of the world simply melted away. As if by magic a valet appeared out of nowhere and offered to park our car and take luggage to our quarters, while a porter accompanie­d us to the main reception where we were greeted by name and shown to our room.

And what a room it was – overlookin­g the spectacula­r manicured gardens and swathed in luxurious fixtures and fittings, we were momentaril­y taken aback at its rustic but elegant beauty.

To help us unwind, the porter offered to light a fire in the grate and bring us some tea and cake – both of which we accepted readily as we settled down for an hour or two of relaxation before getting ready for the main event; a seven-course tasting menu in what has long been considered one of Britain’s finest restaurant­s.

Relaxed and refreshed and suitably attired for our sumptuous surroundin­gs, we made our way to the lounge for a pre-dinner aperitif (pink champagne, of course) and perused the extensive menu and wine list.

Despite the many societal changes in standards of living and, indeed, expectatio­ns, Raymond Blanc has retained his restaurant’s award-winning status for an impressive three dec-

‘Our mammoth meal began with confit of salmon, followed by scallops, Dover sole, venison, a cheese plate and two desserts... we were prised from the table hours later’

ades and with every good reason. Where possible, his ethos is to ensure that food is harvested and cooked in season and is grown or reared locally – this means that everything on the Le Manoir restaurant menu is of the highest standard without having been transporte­d from the other side of the globe.

Our mammoth meal began with a confit of salmon, followed by scallops, Dover sole, venison, a diverse cheese plate and not one

but two mouth-watering desserts – all paired with the finest of wines.

This probably sounds like an obscene amount of food but each dish was as delicately presented as it was apportione­d – and as guests can freely linger for as long or short a time as they want over their meal, we were eventually gently prised from the table about two-and-a-half hours later to enjoy some coffee and petit fours in the lounge.

After a suitable time relaxing in front of the roaring fire, we took ourselves off to our room to enjoy a restful sleep in an enormous bed, the covers of which had been turned down and the pillows plumped in our absence. Giving in to its sumptuous luxury was such bliss, it almost felt sinful.

The following morning, we were awakened by a discreet knock heralding the arrival of a refreshing pot of tea. Wanting to see the breakfast buffet in all its glory, we opted to eat (as if we needed sustenance) in the restaurant rather than our room and we were not disappoint­ed.

Fresh fruit, cereals, granola, homemade yoghurts, various juices and smoothies, pastries and a selection of delicious breads awaited us as we were ushered inside. And if this wasn’t enough, we were handed a menu with all manner of cooked options to choose from.

I was planning a day in the cookery school, so didn’t indulge too much in what was on offer, but suffice to say, every morsel I had was worth adding to the calories I must have gained the evening before.

However, it would be impossible to come to Le Manoir and not sample all it had to offer. So by the same token, I used the opportunit­y to learn some culinary tips from the master.

Located inside a small round tower, the cookery school has been designed to emulate a home kitchen, which makes perfect sense as there can’t be too many people who cook their dinner at a stainless steel work station in their house.

I was slightly nervous to start with but once I had donned my chef ’s whites and apron, was ready for action – and over the following hours, I chopped, sliced, sizzled and kneaded to within an inch of my life to produce (if I do say so myself ) a most impressive winter dinner party menu.

It was a full-day course but the hours flew by as it was both informativ­e and fun – and best of all, I got to keep my whites and was presented with a certificat­e proving that I had not only completed but also passed (Yay!) a Raymond Blanc cookery course.

All too soon, my time at Le Manoir was over and I had to re-enter the real world. The 24-hour visit had passed in a blur of luxury, discreet but attentive service and, crucially, the most delicious and artfully crafted food I had tasted in a long time.

A stay in this Oxfordshir­e gem does not come cheap, but nor would you expect it to. It is the sort of place usually reserved for special occasions – anniversar­ies, a birthday treat or even a Christmas present.

Being treated like royalty is something everyone should get to experience at least once in their lives – so whether you book a meal, a cookery course or an overnight stay, make sure you jot this one down on your bucket list.

 ??  ?? opulence:
The Jade superior suite, right, features swathes of exotic silks to emulate a plush South-East
Asian boudoir
opulence: The Jade superior suite, right, features swathes of exotic silks to emulate a plush South-East Asian boudoir
 ??  ?? food fanatic: A trainee chef watches Blanc create delicate sugar baskets and, left, cream cheese crème and glacée strawberri­es with szechuan pepper
food fanatic: A trainee chef watches Blanc create delicate sugar baskets and, left, cream cheese crème and glacée strawberri­es with szechuan pepper
 ??  ?? stew on it: Seafood bouillabai­se with red mussels and brandade
stew on it: Seafood bouillabai­se with red mussels and brandade
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 ??  ?? Stately: Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons and its twoMicheli­n starred restaurant are owned by Raymond Blanc, below with Arlene
Stately: Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons and its twoMicheli­n starred restaurant are owned by Raymond Blanc, below with Arlene
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