The Irish Mail on Sunday

Marvellous Madrid is a captivatin­g capital

If you thought Barcelona was brill then just wait till you see how magical Madrid is, says Seán Dunne

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When you can buy plenty of mouthwater­ing tapas dishes from €2 a time – and enjoy a decent bottle of vino tinto on top – then what’s not to like about Madrid? Given the Spanish capital’s many attraction­s, it is remarkable that such an excellent city can be overlooked by tourists in favour of its fiercest rival, beach-blessed Barcelona.

Although Spain is always associated with hot summers, winter gives a majestic feel to the vibrant city of Madrid too. It’s cold enough for hats and gloves in the evening – a rare sight in Spain, you might think – but then when the Spanish sun breaks out in the afternoon you can enjoy a coffee outdoors. And what coffee it is!

Madrid’s main thoroughfa­re, the Gran Via, buzzes with activity morning, noon and night so much so it is the street than never sleeps.

One of the best ways to immerse yourself is to indulge in Spanish cuisine in some of the best tapas bars Madrid has to offer along the Gran Via. The selection of delights is so tempting it will reduce even the most seasoned of traveller to giddiness.

Dinner (not to be confused with our midday meal) is at 9pm at the earliest in Spain and you can choose from one of the many good tapas bars in the square.

Sampling some of the local cider and vino along the way we checked out a more authentic slice of Madrid, and sampled tapas in Bodegas Sierra, then El Bocaíto, then Vinoteca Vides, and finally Mercado de San Antón.

For a post-tapas stroll, walk down Calle Huertas, making sure to read the quotes from famous Spanish authors engraved on the street.

For a sample of the wealthier side of Madrid then why not check out Salamanca. Located within walking distance, this vibrant stretch of Madrid is a beautiful residentia­l neighbourh­ood and shopping district of wide streets and grand 19th century buildings.

Salamanca is home to Madrid’s wealthier and most aristocrat­ic residents, as well as the upmarket shopping boulevards Serrano and Ortega y Gasset. While the Salamanca neighbourh­ood is typically a great place to go for quality, traditiona­l Spanish restaurant­s, you’ll also find modern eateries, gourmet places and restaurant­s serving internatio­nal cuisine.

While in the neighbourh­ood, and having worked up an appetite from checking out Madrid’s equivalent of Los Angeles’ Rodeo Drive, we dined at Platea. It is a gastronomi­c experience – a gourmet food hall which combines the magic of dining in a once renowned theatre where there’s live music too. A place to relax, enjoy yourself and meet friends in a setting where everything comes together and makes perfect sense. Some of the very best chefs from the culinary world are at home here and, over a five-course lunch, we were certainly well catered for.

There’s lots to see and do in Madrid but a short trip to the city in winter cannot do justice to this historic and superb city.

What makes this city more appealing than Barcelona is the calmness of side streets that offer much adventure too. Whether you’re looking for a quiet drink or a secret shopping trail there’s lots to offer and at a much calmer pace than the side streets of Barcelona’s showpiece Las Ramblas.

Madrid’s La Reina Sofia modern art museum is free on Sunday mornings and offers a crash course in modern Spanish art and 20th century history. The first floor has lots to offer, including Picasso’s masterpiec­e Guernica. That painting, and the story behind it, are worth the visit alone.

There’s plenty to like in this most vibrant of cities – from quaint tapas bars and a glass of vino tinto to the more upbeat rooftop cocktail bars.

But if the bars, shops and shops of Madrid aren’t what you have in mind on a city break then why not check out one of the many walking trails along the city at night.

And for those of you looking to explore a little more than Madrid, then look no further than Aranjuez, a wonderful cultural city itself that is just a 35-minute cheap train ride away from the capital.

Situated between the Tagus and Jarama rivers, the Villa of Aranjuez has been one of the Spanish Crown’s royal sites ever since it was named as such by King Philip II in 1560. It was declared a World Heritage Cultural Landscape by UNESCO in 2001.

We had a guided tour of the palace which boasts the wealth and aristocrac­y one would expect from any royal family. By far my favourite part of this royal visit wasn’t looking at the furniture inside but instead the magnificen­t gardens surroundin­g – which are a mustsee. The royal gardens are the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of the Madrid’s streets. And there are ducks too. Plenty of them.

One piece of advice is to pack a good pair of walking shoes for this day trip. We walked around the royal gardens for what seemed like hours.

They were gorgeous and enormous and, while they are the perfect place to aimlessly wander around, you eventually realise you are at least 3km from the entrance. Luckily there is a small town train

‘History, royalty, excellent tapas — Madrid has plenty of offer tourists’

that drives by every now and then to take you back to the entrance.

Before our brief trip to Madrid came to an end, we visited the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial in the heart of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range.

Thanks to its great location, it offers plenty of sightseein­g you cannot miss.

Within the Dehesa de La Herrería – with wonderful views over San Lorenzo itself – the Casita del Infante historic building can be found.

For its beauty, San Lorenzo de El Escorial, next to the citadel of Alcalá de Henares and Aranjuez, have been named World Heritage of the Community of Madrid.

The monastery at Alcalá de Henares is a place of impressive dimensions. Its highlights include the Panteón Real where you can find buried Spanish monarchs of the houses of Austria and Bourbon, the Salas capitulare­s, a library and patios. Breathtaki­ng views from each little window on the inside will leave you wanting to explore more.

Inside its basilica are two monuments dedicated to the families of Carlos I and Felipe II – the remains of the monarchs are in the Panteón de los Reyes, located under the chancel of the basilica in a circular chapel.

Having lived in Barcelona, I had always said the Catalan capital was my favourite – but it now shares that title with Madrid .

Captivated from the nightlife to cultural activities, I have already planned my return to Madrid in April to run a half marathon. Oh, and to experience the city at a slightly warmer temperatur­e.

 ??  ?? majestic: The Gran Via in central Madrid is known as the Spanish Broadway
majestic: The Gran Via in central Madrid is known as the Spanish Broadway
 ??  ?? stroll: Seán wraps up warm as he takes an off-season walk in Madrid
stroll: Seán wraps up warm as he takes an off-season walk in Madrid
 ??  ?? food palace: Platea is a gourmet food hall inside a converted theatre
food palace: Platea is a gourmet food hall inside a converted theatre
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 ??  ?? bREaThTaki­ng: The Royal Palace in Aranjuez, outside Madrid. Right: La Reina Sofia art museum
bREaThTaki­ng: The Royal Palace in Aranjuez, outside Madrid. Right: La Reina Sofia art museum

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