THERE’S A LOT MORE TO MALTA THAN ONE FALLEN ARCH
It was sad to see that the Azure Window, Malta’s landmark coastal arch, collapsed into the sea during a storm last week. This lovely limestone structure close to Dwejra Bay on the island of Gozo had long been one of the signature features of the area, even landing itself a part in Game of Thrones.
And now it’s gone, prompting Joseph Muscat, Malta’s prime minister, to refer to its loss as ‘heart-breaking’.
But Malta has so much more to offer than its Azure Window, beautiful as it was. And despite last week’s news, you’ll still find Malta is in upbeat mode.
Why? Well, from an Irish perspective, it was good to hear recently that Ryanair will operate twice-weekly direct flights to the island from Belfast International (they already fly year-round from Dublin), starting at the beginning of November.
Then just a few days ago the cultural programme for 2018 was announced. That’s the year the lovely Maltese capital, Valletta, takes up its European Capital of Culture mantle. Valletta is one of my favourite small European cities. In a beautiful peninsula setting on the Grand Harbour, and with its now slightly peeling 16th century elegance much in evidence in the higgledy-piggledy streets, it is a treasure box full of delights.
A World Heritage Site in itself, this fortress city, built by the Knights of St John, is a lovely place to while away a few days. I first visited on an April weekend when the cafes and restaurants had taken to the outdoors, spreading themselves beyond their winter confines, and with tables and chairs arranged on pavements and squares in abundance to make the most of the sunshine.
I loved the cathedral, located right on the main street and not far from the city walls. St John’s was deceptively plain on the outside but majestically and sumptuously over-thetop once you stepped over the threshold. Caravaggio’s massive masterpiece The Beheading of John the Baptist is housed here, as are numerous other jewels.
It’s the overall atmosphere of this city, however, that is so alluring. Maybe that’s helped by its relatively small scale, but it is a welcoming and manageable place, and so, for me, even if it’s just as a taster for a longer visit to the island on another occasion, Valletta is a perfect long-weekend destination.
We stayed that first time in the Phoenicia Hotel, now a five-star grand dame just beside the city walls.
It was a lovely hotel in a great location and appears to have even upped its swank level since then.
If you’re staying there in style, make sure to ask for a room with a view of the Grand Harbour. There are lots and lots of other fine hotels around the city, however, including a new crop of ‘boutique’ types, if that’s your thing.
The opening ceremony for next year’s festivities takes place in January, with lots of different events planned throughout the year.
In Malta in general – and Valletta in particular – it’s impossible to escape the influence of the sea.
With its seafaring history and its fortress defences, it is only fitting that one of the programme highlights will be Valletta’s ‘Pageant of the Sea’, scheduled for June 2018 and set to see the Grand Harbour transformed with nautical displays and a lavish firework extravaganza.
All told, Malta looks like the place to be next year. Or any year for that matter.