The hidden jewel in the heart of Europe
It’s not on everyone’s radar... but Grace Cahill discovers that Ljubljana in Slovenia has a world of charm
Paulo Coelho’s very descriptive imaginings of Ljubljana are my first memories of Slovenia. I remember reading his novel, Veronica Decides To Die, on a boat from Holyhead to Dublin while I was in university and devouring it on that short journey across the Irish Sea. The protagonist’s life is played out in a convent in Slovenia’s capital city and I recall picturing a dark, mysterious city. Perhaps it was down to the sad, bleak narrative of the story and my own naivety but seven years on, I found myself in Veronica’s beloved home town – wandering the quaint cobbled, lanes off Preseren Square, mesmerised and pleasantly surprised by this beautifully serene, enchanting city.
For a city so under the radar – pushed below other European heavyweights Paris, Rome and Vienna – Ljubljana has a vibrating rhythm with bustling markets and coffee shops, outdoor bars and restaurants that open late. The city’s main attraction, Ljubljana Castle, sits high on a mount, overlooking the magnificent baroque-style cathedrals and architecture. The city is said to have been under Roman rule for some time – until Attila the Hun destroyed it – and so you’ll find preserved walls on display in underground exhibits beneath the Zvezda Park. All of this sits either side of Ljubljana’s romantic river canal that snakes through the city.
A particularly welcoming feature of Ljubljana is that most sights can be visited for free. There is a small fee for entry to and panoramic views overlooking the castle and wooden boat rides along the canal (a must if the weather is sunny) but for the most part, museums, galleries and creative spaces are free of charge.
Worth a visit are the National Museum and Slovenian Railway Museum for their historic influence and the old army barracks – which exudes a sort of happy chaos – covered in colourful graffiti and sculptures and home to the city’s only gay bars and venues. Though most of the locals travel by bike, the city is entirely walkable and shops are all situated within easy distance of each other. The Galerija Emporium, an old renovated palace is one of Ljubljana’s oldest shopping centre and houses big designer names but beside it are Lsmaller boutiques and vintage shops. jubljana has an addictive charm but getting out of the city is just as delightful too. One hour north is Slovenia’s most treasured natural attraction, Lake Bled – a magnificent turquoise lake in the foothills of the Julian Alps, with a magical mountain backdrop ringed by forested slopes that look out on to the island. On the other side is the Church of the Assumption along with a 16th century bell of wishes. If you’ve timed your cross-over well and you’re lucky enough to catch sunset over the lake, it’s very memorable.
Surrounding the lake is Bled Castle which dominates the north shore – and villas, cafés and hotels dot the rest of the shoreline.
Further west into the Julian Alps is popular ski resort Vogel. It’s a smaller resort (more than suitable for my myself and my girlfriends’ amateur skiing skills) nestled between the Swiss, Italian and
three days, Blaz – a former pro skier, now running a ski company between London and Ljubljana, took on the challenge of teaching three feisty women in their 30s how to snowplough without diving headfirst and injuring ourselves. He was more than patient with our efforts.
Slovenian families traditionally spend their weekends skiing in the mountains and so most Slovenian children born on the slopes typically learn how to tackle the steep black slopes by the time they are teenagers. Although quieter, there are restaurants and bars aplenty with local cuisine and beers, made all the more appealing by the prices. A round of five beers typically costs about €12–€14 , considerably cheaper than Swiss and French resorts that border Slovenia.
Down south along the Adriatic coast is where Slovenian holiday-makers descend for Piran’s quiet rustic sea-side charm. Once you leave the hustle and bustle of Ljubljana before tackling the slopes, a day or two in Piran is a relaxing hideaway. Quiet medieval streets are lined with local craft and artisan shops and when you finish shopping, a walk along the harbour where the only noise you’ll hear are the groups of local fishermen, is a delight. Nicknamed ‘piccola Venezia’, because of its 500-year history under Venetian rule, the town is moulded from Istrian limestone and marble and is scattered with old Italian-style terracotta rooftops. Climb the cobbled streets, all the way up to the Church of Saint George and you’ll squeeze in a glorious view of the sea and surrounding hills .
You can’t leave Slovenia without visiting one of Europe’s natural wonders – the Postojna Caves. An underground railway steams 20km deep into the mountains giving you a close-up view of billion-year-old enormous stalactites and stalagmites. It’s one of the biggest attractions in Slovenia and is best enjoyed early morning before the crowds arrive.
While you’re there, take a stroll around Predjama Castle just 10km away where a guide will happily take you around the country’s oldest fortress. It’s built into a cliff-side and worth a stroll around its stairways and tunnels for endless photo opportunities. Particularly memorable is the potent local whiskey served with pastries afterwards by a waitress dressed in native Slovenian attire – which go down a treat after a day spent on your feet. Round off your trip, back at in Ljubljana at As Aperitivo, one of the cities trendiest eateries where homemade bread and hearty jota (soup) is the perfect Slovenian last supper.