Falling for the wildlife in southern Africa
TV presenter Lisa Maxwell is enthralled by a true wonder of the world – and by the cutest cubs in Botswana
GOING on safari was the holiday I’d always wanted to do. I’m not sure why as I’m not exactly adventurous. When it comes to holidays, it has to be affordable and relaxing – neither of which could be said to apply to a safari!
But this seemed absolutely the right holiday for us. My husband Paul and I had both been working hard, and our daughter Beau had just started her A-levels.
I’m glad that we stepped out of our comfort zone, because, quite simply, our safari turned out to be the best holiday we’ve ever had together. We enjoyed it so much, partly because it kept us busy all the time. But also it was a huge learning experience – we discovered so much.
The Victoria Falls are on the Zambesi River at the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. At more than 300ft high, they are rightly regarded as one of the seven wonders of the natural world.
As we flew in, we could see the Falls in the distance, which was very exciting.
We stayed at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, rated one of the finest resorts in Africa.
We had barely checked in before we were quickly ticking off the wildlife we had spotted: vultures in one direction, warthogs in the other. It was thrilling to see these wild animals and birds in their natural habitat.
We had a picnic made up for us one day and were then taken to a hide where we were able to photograph crocodiles through a slit in the wall. They were just a few yards away. Amazing!
Even more astounding, however, were the Falls themselves. The big thing was the trek there – it was pretty hard work. But when we reached the top, we suddenly got an idea of their scale. I know that people use the word ‘awesome’ all the time these days, but there is no other word in this case.
Our next adventure was a canopy tour and the chance of a zipwire ride. We turned this down because we were ‘too tired’ – actually we’re a bit scared of heights.
A sunset cruise on the Zambezi River was much more our thing. There were more crocs, all sorts of colourful birds, and lots of hippos and elephants having a bath next to the river. We also enjoyed a trip first to look at buffalo and see the vultures being fed: a hundred birds all descending on a piece of meat.
This experience – along with all the other wildlife encounters – kept making me think of The Lion King. I know it sounds silly, but Disney really got it right: the colours, the circle of life, and how every animal has its role.
Beau loved The Lion King as a child. Now she is 17 it’s lovely for her see Africa’s wildlife for real.
One of the great attractions at the hotel was the Dinner and Drum show at the Boma restaurant. As you go in, staff give you a piece of African cloth to put around you, and then you have your face painted. I must admit I don’t normally want to join in things like, that but there was a joyousness about it all that was hard to resist.
I was even persuaded to join the African dancing – the rhythmic music was wonderful, so liberating – one of the best nights ever.
From the Falls we hired a car for the 160km drive to the Ngoma Safari Lodge for our safari in northern Botswana’s Chobe National Park. The eight-room lodge is gloriously located in the most beautiful spot. Guests gaze out across the savannah – there are lakes and a nearby watering hole where the animals
come to drink and bathe.
Among the main attractions are the elephant rides. Safety is assured at all times by having a ranger with you. He got us within 3ft of a lion, which felt an honour and a privilege.
The first time this happened, I have to say I was a little frightened; on the second occasion, however, I was just absolutely mesmerised. I could have sat there all day.
We saw young male lions and lionesses with cubs, just lying around, cuddling, and babies yawning and playing with Mum. They were so cute.
I was a little worried that a real safari might seem rather too similar to a trip to a European safari park, but there’s no comparison.
In Chobe National Park you know you’re with wild animals – your senses are bombarded with smells, noises and colour. It’s just so thrilling.
We saw four of the Big Five – lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo and the African leopard. We didn’t see rhino, unfortunately – apparently they’re hard to spot here.
The safari lodge where we stayed supports a local school which we got to visit one day. The teacher was delighted to see us and we were introduced to all the children – they were particularly keen to see my new iPhone 7.
We took lots of pictures and talked about what they were learning and what they were hoping to do when they grow up – a lot wanted to become doctors.
I wasn’t sure how good the food might be in a safari lodge but I needn’t have worried. At Ngoma, the cuisine was five-star and the dishes were locally sourced. In Victoria Falls, the restaurant even had crocodile on the menu.
The Falls were a life-enhancing experience, especially for Beau, who is hoping to do a degree in archaeology and anthropology.
On a spiritual level, we realised just where we fit into the grand scheme of things. We all obsess about things that don’t really matter. In Africa, you are confronted with a life that may be simpler but is the more powerful for that.
I was so bowled over by the people we met: in terms of possessions, they didn’t have much, but they were full of enthusiasm and kindness – all ready to work hard in order to achieve more.
You just couldn’t help but be impressed by their attitude.