On the Grail trail in magical Valencia
Like a modern-day knight seeking the sacred vessel, Patrick Lawlor visits Valencia and finds a city that is magical
GET ON WITH IT!’ Monty Python fans will remember, is the hallowed line from the comedy troupe’s Holy Grail film. And while there was no feeling of this kind of impatience on my own Valencian adventure, the Holy Grail did feature... as did plenty of enlightening activities.
Coincidentally, ‘getting on with it’ is something the change-makers in this Spanish city’s thriving arts and cultural community have been doing for some time now. Much like the Black Knight from said film, who just won’t give in, even when all his limbs are removed, there seems to be a noble perseverance engrained in the Valencian psyche since medieval times. Recession? ‘Tis but a scratch!’ Corporate meddling? ‘Tis only a flesh wound!’
Given the number of setbacks it has had to contend with – which have included church fires in bygone times and a few exorbitant white-elephant projects in the early 2000s – a rejuvenated Valencia is now punching well above its weight.
It is still a young city in terms of developing its potential as an artistic and cultural metropolis to rival Madrid or Barcelona and, truly, that’s what makes it so exciting. For example, only opened one week when I visited in July, the Bombas Gens museum on the city’s outskirts is a magnificent project fulfilled after tireless efforts. Once an old factory that made hydraulic pumps and then bombs on the orders of General Franco, the building with its artdeco facade now houses a modern art collection worth millions.
However, elements of the factory work space remain and there is a permanent exhibit devoted to the public, as well as an air-raid shelter the workers built to protect themselves from falling shells. The institute also serves an altruistic and social function, helping sufferers of the rare Wilson’s disease and those affected by social deprivation issues. A stunning array of colourful abstract artworks will remain on display all year round, while a range of temporary exhibitions will occupy the factory floor.
And if modern art isn’t your thing, the nearby Habitual