A fiesta for all of your senses
Restaurant by Ricard Camarena on Mercado de Colón is definitely worth a visit (more on that later).
The evident grá, or should that be ‘amor’, that the change-makers in Valencia’s arts community have for their painters, architects and even graffiti artists is what makes this such a wonderful city to visit.
From multi-million-euro projects to the smaller galleries and outdoor art spaces, it seems every type of artistic endeavour is proudly valued. One exhibition called Vinz Feel Free by a determined street artist (a masked Vinz) shows his traditional naked characters with animal heads playing the local game of pilota, a type of Valencian handball.
It was refreshing to hear his extraordinary story of going from a graffiti artist with a spray can to an accomplished international artist with his latest Feel Free project occupying the Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporània. Vinz’s Valencian pilotas project runs until September.
It isn’t just the contemporary artists who are bringing Valencia to life. The ancient city founded in 138BC has a rich history with free artistic expression central to its ethos since the Renaissance. A look at the extraordinary Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture in the city’s main cathedral and churches is testament to this. In the Cathedral of Valencia lies the sacred centrepiece… the Holy Grail.
Well, there is a little bit of debate about whether it is the actual cup Jesus used but the Vatican has given it its stamp of approval and popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI both gave it their blessing when they said Mass in the cathedral. Inside, two original Goyas are also on display as well as the uncorrupted arm of St Vincent the Martyr.
The Patriarcha museum and church, still an active seminary, is also worth a visit, as it contains several frescoes, 16thcentury tapestries from Flanders and other works by the likes of Caravaggio.
A Francis Bacon exhibition of more than 50 works by the Irishborn artist is also on display at the headquarters of the Bancaja Foundation in Valencia until October 15.
But there is much more to this city in terms of culture, with plenty for all ages to enjoy. If you’re young, free and single then the trendy Ruzafa district is a hive of activity with pubs and clubs where you’ll be guaranteed to hear the beats of Despacito emanating into the humid night air.
The beach and park at the Turia riverbed are ideal for a siesta if you overdid the clubbing the night before – and, just like the city itself, both are easily accessible by tram, bus or underground rail.
For families, L’Oceanogràfic, Europe’s biggest aquarium, standing beside the unmissable opera house, is a must. There, the little ones – and animal-loving big ones – will be enraptured by the majesty of all the sealife whirling about before their eyes. Dolphins, penguins, jellyfish and many more unusual sea creatures all feature.
At the nearby park in the Turia riverbed, a giant Gulliver slide will also get the wee ones excited.
The Silk Road – dating back to the 15th Century when the city was at Europe’s hub for trading – is a must-see for history buffs and fashion enthusiasts. The old La Lonja Silk Exchange, where silk and velvet traders used to do business, is a magnificent building with magical Gothic carvings. On the square outside, traditional regional dancers and singers perform every Saturday for six months of the year until October.
Foodies’ appetites will also be sated by Valencia, home of paella. The most renowned restaurant is Casa Carmela (book a few days in advance), while La Pepica is an old haunt of Ernest Hemingway. As well as paella, there are plenty of other Valencian dishes. Escalivada is a yummy dish consisting of roasted eggplant and bell peppers, aioli and cheese. Goya restaurant is a must for this. Another ancient
sweet treat – at the buzzing Habitual restaurant – was torrijas, a sort of honey-glazed bread pudding. Truly divine!
For lunch, try a few pintxos and a glass of wine at Orio, while admiring its boat-shaped ceiling. And if you need to cool off while roaming the bustling Old Town be sure to try Llinares’s award-winning ice cream. They have every flavour under the sun including Kinder Egg – and even paella!
Working off all that food isn’t a problem either because Valencia is bike-friendly, with cycle paths everywhere. It is a great way to see the Turia riverbed which tapers towards the City of Arts and Sciences cultural centre, home to the city opera house. In the scorching heat, a non-alcoholic horchata – made with ground tiger nuts – beside the lake here is a refreshing tonic. In the centre, there are plenty of Segway tours if you fancy a more leisurely pace.
Valencia is thriving all year round. If you can stick the heat then the month-long Gran Fira de Valencia festival in July offers so much choice. There are food and MARCH TO THE bEAT OF THEiR OWN DRUM: Valencia is a riot of colour and sound drink fairs, concerts, street performances and round-the-clock entertainment. And if you prefer milder weather, then in March the Valencia Las Fallas festival is an exciting carnival of bonfires, fiestas, food and fireworks where the locals celebrate their heritage.
So, whether it’s a crusade to find some of the most remarkable religious and historic sights you’re after or a more leisurely break filled with fiestas followed by siestas, then a visit to this holy grail of urban culture and arts cannot be ignored.