Sardinia sparkles – even without its capital of bling
There’s a reason why Sardinians live so long (there are 10 times more centenarians per capita than in the US). A combination of the simple outdoor life, close family ties and a lean, plantbased diet all washed down with a glass or two of local wine, does wonders for your lifespan.
Keen to extend our longevity and enjoy a spot of la dolce vita Sardinia-style, my girlfriend and I visited the verdant coastal region of Gallura. First stop, the infamous Costa Smeralda. If you’re into celeb-spotting and ogling the latest designer goods, it’s worth spending a few hours cruising the resorts along this 20km stretch.
Wandering through Porto Cervo’s main square, we popped into an ordinary cafe only to pop straight out again – €9 for a black coffee and another €5 for a croissant seemed excessive, even for the capital of bling. As we drove away from Costa Smeralda, the coastline became less manicured and more romantic, dotted with beautiful beaches.
On arrival at the Capo D’Orso spa hotel, situated within a forested swathe, Mario, the ruddy-cheeked manager, ushered us out onto a promontory overlooking the port of Cala Capra. ‘You’re just in time,’ he said. ‘I never tire of this view, especially at sunset.’ When I joked that we hadn’t spotted a single celeb during our visit to Costa Smeralda, Mario tapped his nose and whispered: ‘The proper celebrities come here.’
No doubt when the stars do descend on this magical place, they head straight for the spa. The three adjoining outdoor pools contain seawater of differing temperatures and a range of hydro-massage jets. The waters here supposedly contain healing qualities. For my painful knee and shoulder the spa treatment expert recommended a plunge in the chilliest pool and 20 minutes in the sauna, which gave me some temporary respite.
After a lunch of red snapper and some fine Vermentino, my non-golfing girlfriend and I took to the fairway. The epic view across the bay to the island of Caprera more than made up for our appalling backswings. As we headed off the course, we vowed to one day grow properly old here and join the Sardinian centenarians club.