GETTING THERE

The Savoia Excelsior

Palace has rooms from €136 a night, including breakfast. Visit starhotels. com/en/our-hotels/ savoia-excelsior-palacetrieste. Ryanair (ryanair. com) flies from Stansted to Trieste from €24 one way.

sTAnding TALL: The statue of James Joyce by the Grand Canal. Above: Miramare Castle