SIGN OF THE TIMES IN AFRICA’S HIPPO TOWN – ST LUCIA
The warning signs along South Africa’s Indian Ocean coastline are rather unusual, to say the least. It’s not sharp bends or speed bumps you have to look out for – it’s hippos.
At the bottom of a gorgeously languid estuary system, St Lucia initially appears to be a happy-golucky holiday town. But despite the sunshine, bars, restaurants and boat trips, there is also an ever-present menace from portly beasts.
The town, about 240km north of Durban, was built on a hippo pathway and every evening the animals leave the water to graze in grassy fields – the hippos have simply refused to acknowledge that they should shift.
But as staff of the hippowatching river cruises during the day warn, you don’t want to get too close.
Hippos are responsible for more deaths in Africa every year than any other mammal, which is quite something considering they’re vegetarian.
Skipper Stacey Farrell, at the helm of the Shoreline Boat and Walking Safaris vessel, says their temperament is the problem. ‘They are very territorial,’ she says. ‘If we were another hippo, they’d be attacking us.’
We’re very fortunate that the three families nearest the town are now tolerant of boats. This allows us to get remarkably close.
Elsewhere in Africa – and, indeed, further down the estuary – hippos are much more likely to attack boats.
They are very grouchy, aggressive and instinctively opt for fight rather than flight.
There are also crocodiles – we see them sunning themselves on the banks – and bull sharks in the water. But they give the hippos a wide berth.
As the boat sidles up to one family, there’s a furore.
One’s probably trodden on another’s foot and there’s a cacophony of grunting going on. They’re in the water because they can’t sweat.
Spending the day bellydown in the shallows is an essential coping mechanism under the hot sun.
But that doesn’t stop the little ones from playing. One leaps out of the water. It’s remarkably cute – or at least it seems that way until I ask what would happen if I jumped in with it. Without hesitation, Stacey answers: ‘Its mum would kill you.’
Yes, I think I’ll drive to the restaurant this evening…