Where old China meets new

SHUFFLING with the crowds along Kuan Zhai Alley, a network of lanes dating from the Qing dynasty, I breathe in a familiar blend of smoky chilli, toasted Sichuan peppercorns and crushed garlic; it instantly feels like home.

Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan province in south-west China and arguably where the cream of Chinese cuisine can be found. There are a few spots I always visit because I know I’ll find the best street food. Kuan Zhai Alley is one, crammed with stalls selling bites such as guo kui – fried bread filled with pork mince.

Although Chengdu has a reputation for good eating, it is the history and culture of this one-time capital of China that draws visitors. Kuan Zhai Alley, for example, was once home to Manchu soldiers during the Qing dynasty and is one of the few remaining examples of imperial-era architecture in the city.

For those after a more modern feel, Taikoo Li is perhaps the best example. Housed in imperial Chinese-style wood and glass buildings are luxury stores including Alexander McQueen, Gucci and YSL. But at the heart of this fauxretro complex is Daci Temple, a Buddhist sanctuary originally built between the 3rd and 4th Centuries. That’s the thing about this city: the way it keeps pace with modernity means it never feels foreign, wherever you’ve come from.

China Southern flies twice daily from Heathrow to Guangzhou, with connecting flights to Chengdu. Fares start from €492 return. For further information, visit global.csair.com.