La Rochelle
Rochelle in France boasts a proud maritime tradition, but it is also now a gastronomic hub and an environmental pioneer, as Gareth Huw Davies finds…
1. TOWERS OF STRENGTH
A TRICOLOUR flutters over the formidable St Nicolas Tower at the old harbour’s entrance. Built in 1345, it used to share defensive duties with the slightly smaller Tower of the Chain. Tour de la Lanterne, the third tower, is the Atlantic coast’s only surviving medieval lighthouse – its walls still bear graffiti from captured English seamen. A joint ticket allows entry into all three buildings.
2. BY GEORGES
Inspector Maigret creator Georges Simenon would ride his horse into town in the 1930s and take refreshment at the now immaculately restored Cafe de la Paix. Another favourite atmospheric bar is the dimly lit Cave La Guignette.
3. LIFE ON THE WAVES
One of La Rochelle’s unofficial names is ‘Daughter of the Sea’. They celebrate many centuries of voyaging, fishing and trading in the Maritime Museum. The story is told in a series of shell-shaped pavilions. The visit ends on a real vessel, the France 1, the nation’s weather ship. The other magnificent marine feature is the Aquarium, where I enjoyed three courses of excellent cooking.
4. GOING GREEN
Is La Rochelle France’s greenest city? In 2015 they tested a driver-less electric bus. It jinked around the harbourside, niftily avoiding obstacles and people. France’s first pedestrianised streets were here, along with the original public bicycle hiring scheme. The eyecatching yellow cycles are available at the Tourist Information Office.
5. MARKET CHOICES
Its main market is open every morning, selling ingredients to make a MasterChef contestant drool. There’s the nuttytasting butter of Surgeres in the local Charente region, red eggs from Marans, and tourteau de charente, a cheesecake burned black on the top. At the harbour I found mounds of oysters, mussels and prawns.
6. HISTORIC HEART
Old La Rochelle grew rich on international trade and merchants left a handsome legacy, including 16th and 17th Century houses. One of the best is in the Cloister of the White Ladies, now government offices. Think Versailles, only smaller, and painted in ochre to give it an Italian look.
l For more information, visit en-charente-maritime. com.