Peace like a river
After enduring decades of conflict and heartbreak, the 2,700-mile Mekong has become a source of beauty and wonder, says Henry Philips
The long transition from war zone to fashionable holiday destination has happened several times before, but never perhaps with such pace and style as that accomplished by Vietnam and Cambodia.
Until relatively recently Vietnam’s Mekong Delta summoned up thoughts of the epic 1979 war movie Apocalypse Now, in which Martin Sheen’s soldier journeys upriver on a patrol boat in search of a renegade officer played by Marlon Brando.
The Mekong played a key role in the war. Former US Secretary of State John Kerry commanded a Swift patrol boat on the river 50 years ago – he was so appalled by what he saw during his period of combat that he became a fervent anti-war campaigner. He subsequently entered politics, becoming the Democratic nominee for President in 2004. Last year, Kerry returned to the Delta and discovered that the free-fire zone he had served in was now the starting point for one of the world’s great cruising experiences.
The 2,700-mile Mekong begins as snowfall on the Tibetan plateau among the Himalayas – and ends at the Mekong Delta in Vietnam where it flows into the sea. Like most rivers, through history it has been a source of life and hope. Its waters play a vital part in irrigating the land: in the Mekong Delta the rice fields thrive because of it. Politically, it acts as a border between countries – it passes through six.
Many of the world’s waterways have been blighted by industry, but the Mekong has remained largely pristine, so all manner of plant and animal life flourishes along its course. There are 20,000 species of plants, 430 types of mammal, more than 1,000 types of bird, 800 different reptiles and 850 distinct breeds of fish… and more are being discovered all the time.
But in terms of economic importance, its tourist potential has only been appreciated recently, with countries along its length coming together to see how visitor numbers can be maximised.
Unlike favourites the Danube, Rhine and Rhone, each of which can be enjoyed on a seven-night break, a
Vietnam and Cambodia river trip needs at least a fortnight to do it justice. APT’s 15-night Vietnam And Cambodia Highlights, for example, begins in Ho Chi Minh City – formerly Saigon – and ends in Siem Reap near the extraordinary Angkor temple complex. A highlight of any trip here is to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat.
As with most river cruises these days, one of the key attractions of the trip is the life and service on the boat itself. Every APT Mekong River Cruise offers a Luke Nguyen dining experience – Nguyen is an acclaimed chef, author and TV personality who serves his own brand of local cuisine paired with quality wines. In Ho Chi Minh City, passengers can enjoy an exclusive dinner at the stylish Xu restaurant, inspired by Luke, with a range of exquisite dishes that offer a contemporary take on traditional Vietnamese favourites.
On its 14-day Fascinating Vietnam, Cambodia And The Mekong, Avalon Waterways includes a Vietnamese cooking class, a dance show by children from a local orphanage, a water blessing by a monk and a visit to a local farmer’s home. Guests can visit the Cu Chi tunnels, which were used by the Viet Cong. There is also a chance to enjoy the Rex Hotel, famous as the place where during the war the American military command held its daily news conference, referred to by war correspondents as the Five O’Clock Follies thanks to the absurd optimism of the American officers. The Rex’s rooftop bar was a wellknown hangout for military officials and war correspondents.
There are more harrowing reminders of troubled times in Cambodia, where tours are available from Phnom Penh to the Killing Fields at the village of Choeung Ek, the site of a Buddhist memorial to the victims and a museum commemorating the genocide.
A memorial park has been built around the mass graves of many thousands of victims, most of whom were executed after interrogation at the S-21 Prison in Phnom Penh. Tuol Svay Pray High was turned into a torture, interrogation and execution centre. Of the 14,000 people known to have entered, only seven survived.
But the highlight for most visitors will be arriving at Siem Reap, from which tours depart to Angkor Wat.
Siem Reap used to be a stopping-off point. Thanks to the growth in tourism it is now a destination in its own right. It has attracted a burgeoning community of Cambodian and international artists: the Angkor Wat International Film Festival, for example, has become a major event. The prime attraction, however, is the temple complex at Angkor Wat, where you will be taken to watch the sunrise. One happy side effect of this is you should miss the crush of tourists who arrive later in the day.
The temples are on top of a hill; on arrival you will enjoy a fabulous view over Tonle Sap lake, the Kulen Plateau and paddy fields. Built over 1,000 years ago, the temple is ravishingly attractive, particularly when the frangipani trees are in bloom.
It offers an unforgettable final act to an unmissable experience.