Now that IS a scenic route!
300km of lions, elephants, glittering bays, glorious vineyards AND Table Mountain...
SOUTH Africa’s Garden Route, compared to the 2,500km Wild Atlantic Way, is more of a slip road, just 300km between Mossel Bay in the Western Cape to Storms River in the Eastern Cape. Initially, we were anxious about how safe a self-drive tour would be, but there was no reason to be concerned. Although it is important to be vigilant, it is perfectly safe to travel in the main tourist areas.
After touching down in Port Elizabeth, we drove to our first stop – the 61,000-acre Shamwari Game Reserve, which focuses on conservation sustained through tourism. We were delighted to see a leopard and lion on our first drive, and during our stay, our ranger was able to sniff out the Big 5 – lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant and buffalo – with ease. When you’re not out searching for animals, the tented lodges provide luxurious comfort, with each ‘tent’ containing a plunge pool, a wood-burning stove and an outdoor shower (as well as an indoor one!).
After three nights on the reserve, it was time to move to our next destination. We drove for three hours to Plettenberg Bay, a seaside town with fine restaurants and outdoor activities. We stayed at Lairds Lodge, one of the most comfortable hotels I’ve experienced. It has only ten rooms, so it feels as if you’re staying in the hotel on your own.
After our drive, we decided to head straight out for dinner at Emily Moons – the go-to location in town. It features wood-fired pizzas and craft beer, presented with a panoramic view of the river flats.
This set us up perfectly for our hike the next day along the Robberg Peninsula. The national park provides three routes, depending on your fitness levels and appetite for danger.
Plettenberg has a good selection of fish restaurants and the strong exchange rate meant that eating out was very reasonable – a decent meal with wine came to no more than €30 each.
Our journey continued to the wine region around Franschhoek. It was a long drive from Plettenberg but culminated in stunning views. Franschhoek became a wine-making centre following the arrival of French Huguenots fleeing persecution from Louis XIV. Vineyards dot the landscape as far as you can see. Most activities in Franschhoek revolve around tasting wine.
One of the most enjoyable ways to experience the different estates is to take the wine tram. Each vineyard offers a generous sampling selection, and you can buy cheese or snacks at most of them. We ended our South African adventure with a stay in Cape Town. The natural setting is unforgettable with Table Mountain overlooking a long stretch of coastline. We ventured up Table Mountain – the cable car makes light work of the climb, and we were quickly on the flat summit. The view is as good as you would expect, and we gazed out at it alongside a group of dassies – they look like giant hamsters, but in fact they are closely related to elephants. How can that be? Robben Island is another must-see – book a trip in advance, because tickets sell out. The former jail provides an emotional insight into apartheid and the struggle political prisoners faced. As you’d expect, the most famous inmate, Nelson Mandela, features heavily and it’s possible to see his old cell.
While modern-day Cape Town recognises the hardships of its past, it is also a confident city. The locals know how to enjoy themselves with world-class food and wine. As we strolled back to our hotel by the waterfront, we reflected on two incredible weeks spent exploring
OUR ‘TENT’ HAD TWO SHOWERS, ONE INSIDE AND ONE OUTSIDE
South Africa. Like the dassies lying on the top of Table Mountain, we’d basked in the warmth of South African culture.
Best Of South Africa Travel (bestofsouthafricatravel.com, 0044 1233 802727) specialises in tailor-made itineraries. A 14-night holiday costs from €4,084pp, including return flights from Heathrow via Doha.