Many happy returns Israel
Israel is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited. It’s also a place of great contrasts, from the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea to the Judean Desert and the extraordinary fortress of Masada. Then there’s the ancient city of Jerusalem where every stone could tell its own story, while the vibrant, modern city of Tel Aviv showcases what seems like a completely different country.
Tomorrow marks the 70th anniversary of the birth of the state of Israel, with this particular milestone acting as a tourist attraction for people from all over the world this year. Yes, you’re right if you are thinking that there were anniversary celebrations there back in April – that’s because Israel still marks public holidays under the Jewish calendar, but tomorrow is the actual date that the state was proclaimed independent by the country’s first prime minister, David Ben-Gurion, back in 1948.
Of course, while it is a source of celebration for Israelis, it is a date that angers and upsets their Arab neighbours, and for perfectly understandable reasons.
And while I have commented here before on my difficulties with many of the Israelis that I encountered when I visited the country, there is still no denying that it is a place of great beauty, with so much to see and do, and is, therefore, well worth a visit.
Despite its combative past – and present – it is, strangely, one of the most tranquil places that I have ever visited. In pockets, that is. For you’d never in a million years describe Old Jerusalem as tranquil, or the bustling Arab town of Nazareth, or, indeed, downtown Tel Aviv with its hipster cafe and nightclub vibe.
But when I think of my time there, what comes first to mind is the morning I spent on the Sea of Galilee (not a sea at all, of course, but rather a freshwater lake) in one of the so-called ‘Jesus boats’. Drifting on the water that June morning, with the sun beating down and the silence only broken by the oars of the traditionally built wooden boat channelling through the water, it was like being caught in a time warp. All my childhood Bible stories suddenly came to life.
And then there was the peace and quiet of driving around the hill villages and stopping off here and there to see places that, once again, were such a part of my Sunday school childhood.
Spots like Tabgha of the loaves and fishes story, or Capernaum where Jesus is said to have gathered his disciples with his ‘follow me and I will make you fishers of men’ entreaty. Or the grassy bank above the Sea of Galilee, a beautiful Italian-style church now close by, where Jesus delivered his ‘Sermon on the Mount.’ And Cana, of course, where the water-into-wine miracle is said to have taken place at a wedding. High in the Bet Netofa Valley and only a few kilometres from Nazareth this is another tranquil spot. The church there is really lovely and chosen by loads of people as a place to renew their wedding vows. And then there was Masada. The extraordinary, mind-blowing fortress of Masada, about 100km south of Jerusalem.
This mountain-top palace fortress was built in its remote location more than 2,000 years ago by King Herod. From the top – after a short cable-car ride – you can see the Dead Sea and you are left to simply marvel at how the drama of the Jews’ last stand against the Romans played out, a century after Masada was built in great style by Herod, and to extraordinary specifications which included an away-ahead-ofits-time water system. Taking their own lives and those of their families rather than submit, there was allegedly no Jew left standing when the Romans finally took the fortress.
I went up by cable-car and there were then a number of steps to climb to the top. You can walk up the whole way if you prefer, by what is known as the Snake Path. It takes about 80 or 90 minutes to climb and, if it’s summer, you definitely need to do it before sunrise. Even by cable-car, we did it very early in the morning because once on top there was very little shade.
Apart from the more tranquil parts of Israel, I also gravitated to its Arab heart. I particularly loved Nazareth, a bustling city which boasts the largest Arab population in Israel.
I loved East Jerusalem too, including, in utter contrast to each other, the biblical site of the Garden Tomb and the somewhat more commercial spot that is the beautiful American Colony Hotel. Described as one of the ‘leading hotels of the world’, it’s a place with a fascinating history and a beautiful outdoor dining terrace.
As is the case with most places we visit, Israel isn’t perfect. I wasn’t crazy about Tel Aviv, I hated and resented the El Al airport security interrogations, and I wouldn’t recommend immersing yourself in the Dead Sea. Go and see it, certainly, but as for getting in... forget it! It’s gloopy and slimy and not a pleasant experience.
Head for the Sea of Galilee and one of those ‘Jesus boats’ instead.