MAJESTIC PALMA stunning jewel of the Med
THE capital of Majorca is usually bypassed by the throngs landing at its airport on their way to beach holidays – but what a gem they are missing.
Palma is a fabulous city to rival its mainland neighbour Barcelona, but without the crowds or inflated tourist prices. The charm of the Old Town, with its soaring seafront cathedral, makes it a year-round, city break destination.
DAY ONE MORNING
Get under the skin of the city on a free walking
tour. Guides share their love of Palma and its history on two-hour tours through the narrow lanes and bright sunny squares (mallorcafreetour.com). Just turn up in front of the tourist office below the cathedral at 11am (every day except Sunday).
Then stock up with picnic goodies from the displays of fruit, cheese and cold meats at Mercat de L’Olivar market to take to one of the city beaches. Sandy
Ca’n Pere Antoni is the nearest, a 25-minute walk from the market. Palma can be gloriously warm and sunny even in early spring and autumn.
AFTERNOON
There is an excellent network of
cycle lanes, making cycling an easy and enjoyable way to explore. Of the many hire shops, the cheapest I’ve found is in the underground bus station at Placa d’Espanya (palmabikeandgo.com). Sturdy bikes including lock and basket are €6 a day. Or save your legs and take the open-top hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus (city-sightseeing.com/ en/25/palma-de-mallorca). Tickets are €18 for 24 hours when booked online.
Late afternoon is the perfect time to visit the extraordinary, Gothic Bellver Castle. It has sweeping views from the ramparts. You’ll see the sea and city dominated by the cathedral and backed by mountains across the bay. Entrance is €4 (free on Sundays). Get there on the city sightseeing bus or take buses 3 or 46 from Placa d’Espanya to Placa Gomila (€1.50) and walk up through the pine woods at the end of Carrer Bellver.
For a special night out, Marc Fosh’s (marcfosh.com) Michelinstarred restaurant in a revamped convent in the Old Town has tasting menus from €72pp.
DAY TWO MORNING
See a superb collection of works by Catalan artist Joan Miro in the modern Miro Foundation gallery (miro.palmademallorca.es) situated next to the hillside home he occupied until his death, aged 90, in 1983. Entrance is €7.50 for adults but free after 3pm on Saturdays and the first Sunday of the month. Bus numbers 3 and 46 and the sightseeing bus stop right by the gates. Join office workers for the Plato del Dia lunch in any small restaurant from 1pm to 4pm. Take your choice from three main courses and desserts with wine for €10 a head.
AFTERNOON
Spain is famous for its leather goods and Palma has greatvalue footwear, bags and wallets as well as high fashion on smart Passeig d’es Born. For funky Spanish labels and chains such as Zara, Desigual and Mango you’ll be spoilt for choice on long Carrer St Miguel. Take a break in the Juan March Museum (march.es). This tranquil mansion at 11 Carrer St Miguel has a collection of 20th Century Spanish art, including works by Miro, Picasso and Dali.
Start the evening with a stroll through the Old Town and pinchos at La 5a Puneta at 3 Carrer Caputxines. For dinner, trendy
Patron Lunares (patronlunares. com) in the Santa Catalina district, is a 20-minute walk west of the Old Town.
TUI Holidays offers one week mid-June, half board at the RUI Festival Hotel, Palma from €811pp. Includes flights, transfers. www.tuiholidays.ie