Hamburg
From a giant spider statue to old Beatles haunts – see it all in 48 hours
Iwas born in Liverpool but grew up in Hamburg,’ said John Lennon after The Beatles spent years learning their craft playing hundreds of times in the notorious Reeperbahn district of Germany’s biggest port.
Despite the band’s links, the city’s reputation for rowdy sailors’ brothels and noisy beer cellars is hardly a reason to take a holiday there. Since the 1960s, visitors to Germany tend to gravitate towards Berlin or Munich instead.
In the past year, however, a ‘new’ Hamburg has started to make an impact as one of the best cities in Europe to visit.
Docklands have been transformed by a new waterfront concert hall, Hamburg’s answer to the Sydney Opera House. And a vast area of old warehouses and canals has been restored.
With an amazing two-thirds of Germany’s second city now covered by waterways and parkland, it was no surprise when Hamburg was voted Europe’s Green Capital. Add in a boom in waterfront attractions and areas of alternative shops and bars, and this city suddenly seems one of the hottest new mini-break options.
Here, we show you how to experience all of the key attractions in just 48 hours…
DAY ONE MORNING
Your first impression of Hamburg will be water, water, everywhere. The River Elbe is the city’s gateway to the North Sea and it joins the River Alster in the heart of Hamburg, amid a wonderful network of lakes and canals.
These waterways make Hamburg a lovely city to stroll around. They are lined with 2,500 bridges – there are more than in Venice, Amsterdam and London put together. In fact locals claim Hamburg has the most bridges in the world.
Head to the historic warehouse district, the rather unpronounceable Speicherstadt. Its cobbled walkways lead between towering 150-year-old red-brick stores lining the canals.
Speicherstadt is full of quirky attractions, such as Miniature
World, an extraordinary collection of models. The vast dark room containing a fastidious replica of the centre of Rome at night is particularly memorable. A footbridge over a canal leads to
Cantinetta (ristorante-cantinetta. de), a restaurant in a warehouse. Don’t let passing boats distract you from the signature beef dish that has been cooked for three days.
AFTERNOON
The near-€800million new Elbphilharmonie Concert Hall dominates the waterfront. The ‘Elphi’ is a 20storey glass cube perched on hundreds of springs above a six-storey brick warehouse. This striking structure juts into the Elbe, surrounded by water on three sides. Inside is a fabulous hotel, The Westin, and one of the world’s biggest and most advanced concert halls. The views from the sixthfloor plaza are free but the onehour tour is better. It’s worth the €15 ticket to step on to the waveshaped roof covered in ‘sequins’.
EVENING
Stay in The Elphi for dinner at a bustling bistro or swanky restaurant. Best of all, enjoy a concert. Events often sell out months in advance but check elbphilharmonie.de or try the ticket office for any returned tickets 90 minutes before performances.
DAY TWO MORNING
You’ve seen the ‘new’ Hamburg now visit the ‘old’. The city centre is full of historic buildings and grand squares. Highlights include the ornate Rathaus (town hall), built on thousands of oak piles sunk into the riverbank, and the grand Kunsthalle, one of Germany’s major art galleries, with its giant spider sculpture outside. Find quirky boutiques and flea markets among the colourful street
THE CITY CENTRE IS FULL OF HISTORIC BUILDINGS AND GRAND SQUARES art and buskers in the bohemian Sternschanze area, or ‘Schanze’ to the locals.
AFTERNOON
Head to the 19th Century Gothic landing stages at Landungsbrucken for cruises on the river, canals and lakes to the north. For the more colourful side of Hamburg, follow in the Fab Four’s footsteps to the Reeperbahn.
This area to the west is not for the faint-hearted. It’s a mix of Amsterdam’s red-light district and the set of Blade Runner. At night, with scores of armed police patrolling and ‘men-only’ streets, this is one of Europe’s edgiest spots.
You might feel more comfortable taking a daytime guided tour of The Beatles’ statues and venues. For example, Stefanie Hempel’s personal tours include the main Beatles spots – and include her performing their numbers on the ukulele along the way (hempels-musictour.de).
EVENING
It’s time to sample Hamburg’s bestknown contribution to world history. In the 19th Century a meat patty sandwich was a staple for workers. A local chef emigrated to America with the idea.
Louis Kitchen Bar (louiskitchen bar.de), appropriately just off Hamburger Strasse, is dedicated to the humble origins of the hamburger that went on to conquer the world.