A walk on the mild side of Ibiza
ditches his dancing shoes and explores the family-friendly side of the world’s clubbing capital
IT WAS HARD NOT TO FEEL LIKE AN OLIGARCH! WE PASSED FRAGRANT HERB GARDENS AND ORANGE GROVES...
For a relatively small Mediterranean island, there are many different Ibizas. There’s the clubbers’ paradise, largely based around San Antonio on the west of the island where superstar DJ such as David Guetta play to huge crowds.
There’s the millionaire’s playground of Ibiza town where Russian oligarchs park their yachts offshore before sampling the nightlife.
There’s high-end dining in places such as Heart, part-owned by the founder of Cirque du Soleil and his close friends, Albert and Ferran Adrià who ran possibly the best restaurant in the world for many years, el Bulli.
If you have some spare change, you could try the Sublimation restaurant at the top of the Hard Rock Hotel in Ibiza town. Serving only 12 patrons a night, its 20 course tasting menu will set you back €1,500.
But there’s another Ibiza, quieter than San Antonio, less expensive than parts of the capital city and suitable both for families and those looking to savour a different side of this 41km by 14km island.
It is based around Santa Eulalia in the northeast, 40 minutes from the airport. The town curves around a long beach, separated by a rocky bluff, dotted with restaurants, cafés and ice cream vendors. Two of Ibiza’s most popular beaches are also within striking distance. Cala Llenya is 15 minutes north by car and, further on, is Aguas Blancas, a half hour in total.
There is a pleasant stroll around the ‘river route’ in Santa Eulalia. Sadly, the river is now dry and fed by the sea. Start at the Iglesia del Puig de Missa, a church perched on a hill overlooking the town. Its walls were fortified in the mid-16th century after pirate attacks, although that did not stop its interior being badly damaged during the Spanish Civil War. Neither, however, has affected the stunning views.
Just north of the main square is the local market. It sells good, fresh produce, especially vegetables and fish; conger eel was on special offer the day I was there. Don’t miss the wonderful shop offering leather and shoe repairs with its gloriously eccentric pony-tailed owner.
A little tip for those on a budget; coffee and beer is cheaper around here than in the cafés and bars nearer the beach. It’s also great for watching the locals.
I was lucky enough to have a room in the ME Hotel Ibiza about 4km from the town. A five star property, located right in front of a beach shaded with trees, it has multiple pools, a spa and all the amenities associated with a high-end establishment. The white of the reception area, offset by a really clever light feature reflecting off a sculpture built into the wall, gives way to the stunning azure of the ground floor pool. It was hard not to feel like an oligarch who had landed on his well-heeled feet.
Continuing the theme – even the staff dress in all white – my room had a modern minimalist look. For a second, I had that Irish feeling that I shouldn’t take my clothes out of my suitcase as it wouldn’t look so perfect. That didn’t last long as I grabbed my trunks for a swim.
The hotel has several suites suitable for families. Some on the ground floor have cordoned off areas with small private pools. They can even be connected with the neighbouring rooms to take up to 6/8 people. They are not cheap – approximately €600€1,000 per night depending on the season – but your little ones will feel like princesses and princes.
There is a kids club from 10am to 6pm with a separate pool. Children are supervised by three staff at all times. Should mum and dad want time alone in the evening, there is a baby sitting service for €20 an hour after 6pm.
A cheaper option for families is the linked three star properties a little further north, the Invisa Hotel Club Cala Blanca and Cala Verde. They are set high in the hills with great views of the nearby beach. In high season, the hotels can cater for 2,500 guests of whom 750 are children. There’s an excellent water park, while older children can avail of an adventure centre in a nearby pine forest.
While customers can choose half or full board, all drinks are included and unlimited. Guests in one hotel can avail of the restaurants in the other, provided they book in advance.
The reception area in the Cala Blanca hotel has recently been refurbished giving it a lighter feel than its sister property. It also has an adults’ only area with a bar and wooden cabins where patrons can lie down and relax.
The north of Ibiza rewards visitors with dramatic land and seascapes, a million miles from the bustle of the western shoreline.
A great way of experiencing this is by bike and, even better, by electric bike. In the summer small groups leave from the Cala Blanca hotel. Coymoa Sunride (www. coyma-sunride.com) provide tours ranging from 4-6 hours, starting at €45 per person. It only takes a minute to get used to the additional power of the electric bikes.
We passed fragrant herb gardens and orange groves on our way to Illa de Tagomago, an island nestling offshore, and the lighthouse at
Punta Grossa, the most easterly part of Ibiza. The red soil was redolent of the interior of Australia. Who would have thought this was possible half an hour’s drive from the hedonism of the club scene?
The tour was led by the irrepressible and funny Sven, a German ex-pat, who in the evenings is a singer and entertainer. The night before our trip he performed as a drag queen and had to hurry off to prepare for a Mama Mia themed evening.
Contrary to urban myth, Ibiza is known as the Isla Blanca not because of all-year-round sun reflecting off white washed buildings, but from the still abundant almond trees that bloom white in the winter.
Families can continue to commune with nature with a visit to Maria Colomon’s eco farm, Can Muson. As well as enjoying local organic produce, kids can handfeed animals such as rabbits and goats, while the really small will enjoy the small supervised playground. The farm has recently been awarded the Family Moments seal. It’s an official marker given to establishments, ranging from hotels to restaurants, which cater for families.
My inner oligarch kept calling, however, so I luxuriated at the glorious Countryside Hotel Atzaro. Inland, it is nonetheless a sea of tranquillity. Staff are helpful and discreet, so they won’t tell you that the hotel played a significant part in the romance of Spanish footballer Gerard Pique and Colombian pop star Shakira. Here guests can relax on four poster day beds situated beside a 50m long narrow pool with a sculpture spelling out ‘LOVE’ at its head. You don’t have to stay in the hotel to avail of its spa, pool and beds. Day passes are available if you want to live like a millionaire for a few hours.
You can sample tasty local food at the La Veranda restaurant at Atzaro but there are other options in the Santa Eulalia region. In the town centre, the Restaurant Celler C’an Pere has, unsurprisingly given its name, a great wine list. Its interior is decorated with an antique grape press. The El Naranjo has a beautiful garden and tables near the orange tree after which the restaurant is named. It’s known for its range of contemporary tapas style dishes at reasonable prices.
About 10kms out of town is Es Caliu which specialises in meat and fish cooked over an open flame. The focus is on fresh and local, even stretching to wines from the island, and fruit from the trees in the restaurant’s garden.
So try a different, laid-back, family-friendly Ibiza. David Guetta won’t mind.