Herd about South Africa? I’ll tell you...
With the centenary of Nelson Mandela’s birth being celebrated this coming Wednesday, I’ve been thinking back these past few days to my visit to South Africa a few years ago and recalling the highlights of what was, overall, a truly memorable trip. I’ve written here before about my visit to Robben Island – the island prison where Mandela languished for 18 years of the 27 he spent in captivity – and the huge impression that it left on me. Obviously, Robben Island is a must-see if you visit Cape Town. But apart from that, what are the other South African memories that still linger for me, the places or experiences that I would recommend if you are heading there for the first time any time soon?
GOING ON SAFARI
My few days spent in a game reserve near Port Elizabeth on the Eastern Cape exceeded all expectation. Every time we stepped into the open 4x4 to head out for a drive my excitement levels went through the roof. Especially on the night drives. I can still remember the first one when, in the deathly quiet, we rounded a corner and the ‘search light’ from the jeep suddenly illuminated a giraffe, just strolling along, and crossing the track just ahead of us. It simply looked at us dismissively, looked away, and lumbered on its way.
And I remember the early morning mists at that Shamwari game reserve – pulling back my bedroom curtains to greet the day and looking out across the plains and seeing animals dotted here and there on the horizon. Or the time, on a morning drive, we happened upon a whole herd of elephants and the mothers instinctively went into protective mode, moving closer to their babies. We waited, as you do on safari. And then we waited some more. Eventually they moved off en masse and we could finally drive on.
It struck me at the time, as it still does now, they were the ones roaming free. And we were the ones held captive.
SOWETO
Visited this famous township en route for home from Johannesburg. Extraordinary experience and not quite what I had expected.
Mandela’s house was a must-see, of course, a modest home which is now a small museum but which, back when I visited, just had a few stalls set up in the courtyard selling African carvings and the like. The surprise was the juxtaposition of stark poverty and considerable wealth – shacks housing families on one side of the road and electric-gated houses on the other. You can do all kinds of ‘tours’ of Soweto. But don’t forget it’s a huge township. The almost totally black population now numbers just over 1.5million.
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
We’ve all heard of this from the geography lessons back in our schooldays. It’s the spot where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet and was originally called the Cape of Storms by the 15th century explorer Bartholomew Dias.
Allegedly the most southern point of Africa, it actually isn’t, as that, in reality, is Cape Agulhas, about 200km south-east of here. Cape of Good Hope is a wonderful spot, how- ever – famous for its flora and fauna and its wild, stunning scenery – and an easy day-trip if you are based in Cape Town. It tends to get a bit over-run with tourists later in the day so try to get there as early as possible.
STELLENBOSCH
I loved this pretty university town, one of a number of attractive towns that lie within the area known as the Cape Winelands.
With its Dutch architecture and old-world feel, it’s a pleasant place to while away a few hours. It’s also the place that is, historically, the cradle of Afrikaans culture and it’s still dominated by a white-skinned population. If you’re into wine, however, it’s a great starting point for a wine tour, taking in a number of the wine estates along the route. Places like the famous Spier estate, for example. Don’t just pitch up and expect to be able to take the tour/ tasting. You need to book ahead.
TABLE MOUNTAIN
It almost goes without saying that nobody should visit Cape Town without getting to the top of Table Mountain. It’s the iconic image that defines the city. I can still remember the thrill of flying into Cape Town from Port Elizabeth and seeing Table Mountain for the very first time. When it comes to getting to the top, you have options. There are a number of walking trails, some less arduous than others, or there’s the cable car option, which is the one I took in a large, rotating car offering 360 degree views as you climb high above the city.
Once on top, the views are spectacular. It’s often cloudy at the summit, however, so if you have plans to go up on a particular day and you wake to clear skies then don’t hang about because chances are the clouds – the famous ‘tablecloth’ – may roll in later.
THE BLUE TRAIN
Definitely special-occasion territory as this is one of the world’s most luxurious train journeys, but if you are honeymooning, or marking a significant event, you could do worse than spend your money on this 24-hour trip from Cape Town to Pretoria, or vice versa. (A new route next year will extend the journey by incorporating a side trip to Kimberley.)
Departing Cape Town at 8.30am, you have the advantage of the spectacular scenery all day, and the journey includes a stop at Matjiesfontein. The train is beautiful, with all suites having their own bathrooms, and the food is first-class.
The observation car at the rear is the place to be, however, as the train chugs across an African landscape that you will never forget.