Fancy a brew?
Kevin Gleeson gets a taste of Colorado on a beer and cycling tour – luckily not as risky as it sounds!
Americans are real sticklers for demanding your passport in bars and restaurants but there are times when it does pay to be forgetful and leave your documents back in the hotel. Like when you’re in an Old West brewery town and the live entertainment is later that night in the form of the best damn bluegrass band you’ll ever see.
I’m in Fort Collins, Colorado, having whizzed through the Mile High City, Denver, just a little over an hour’s drive away, to get here.
And I’m glad I am, but more of that in a minute. Back to my passport situation.
Having initially been refused service at The Forge bar for not having ID, I return later that night, passport in hand – just in time to witness 90 minutes of the finest bluegrass I’ve ever been fortunate enough to stumble across.
It just so happened that musicians Jim Watson & Jillian Holzbauer (and their dog!) were passing through town en route from Tulsa, Oklahoma, to Montana, so I’ve serendipity and my own dippiness to thank for the holiday gig of a lifetime. It’s true what they say about timing being everything.
Fort Collins is truly a town of many surprises.
The pace here is slower – and it’s no surprise why. The gleaming streets of the Old Town historic district are lined with pretty cafes and vibrant bars.
There’s a reason these bars are so vibrant. With more than 20 breweries producing 70% of Colorado’s craft beer – and 7% of US total – it’s no wonder the city has an array of beer-centric activities for visitors – not bad, you’re on holiday, right?
The town is a major draw for outdoorsy Coloradans. Craftily, it has cashed in on its twin attractions of beautiful scenery and a vibrant brewing scene, combining the two. Beer & Bike Tours offer the chance to see the city and its breweries – fortunately not as dangerous as it sounds. There was zero risk on the afternoon I was there as, due to an impending storm, we took the minibus instead.
Our first stop was the Germanstyle Zwei Brewery, the perfect starting point to explore its beer culture. We grabbed a table outside and a few trays of sample-sized beers to toast the absence of the storm. All this beer tasting does wonders for the appetite and, thankfully, most breweries are visited by food trucks each afternoon. Our next stop was Cooper Smith’s brewpub for a sip of its Green Chilli beer – and yes that brew was hot! The beers, as you can imagine, were delicious. Bucking the beer trend is nearby Scrumpy’s Hard Cider bar, which, to be honest, is much more to my taste – particularly the strawberry and basil version. With no sign of the storm, it was time to hop on our bikes and trek to the Odell Brewing Company. One of the biggest breweries in Fort Collins, Odell’s also has large outdoor areas with weekly live music. But just as we ran out of beer, we ran out of luck too as the skies turned an angry shade of
THE SLOW PACE HERE MAY BE DOWN TO THE 20 BREWERIES
grey. Jumping back on our bikes we dodged the large hailstones and well-meaning jeers coming from motorists on the short, blustery ride back to the hotel.
The following morning there was no storm and no beer as I headed up to Horsetooth Reservoir to join Nick from Front Range Ride Guides. Now, I admit I am much more at home behind a pint than behind the handlebars but I needn’t have worried. While I was pushed close to the limits of my physical abilities, Nick was the perfect guide, making sure I enjoyed the ride as much as the challenge.
It was my first attempt at mountain biking– and it was brilliant. Another first followed when I experienced that most American of pastimes, tailgating – an altogether more enjoyable experience than tailgating Irish-style.
Safely parked up, we drank beer from the tailgate of Nick’s van. It may not be noon yet but I feel I’ve earned this one.
Like all great US cities Fort Collins is a foodie’s paradise – particularly if you grew up in the Eighties. Totally 80s pizza is like nowhere I’ve ever seen outside of the movies , with memorabilia lining every inch of its walls. From Different
Strokes action figures to Pat Benatar posters, it is a delight. And the pizza is great too.
I stayed at the new Elizabeth Hotel, which is an important amenity for the city. There’s a ground floor coffee shop, rooftop bar, finedining restaurant, wine shop and live music venue.
I could have spent my whole stay here without ever stepping outside! With vinyl players in every room and a musical instrument lending library I could have grabbed a guitar only I can’t play, so everyone’s eardrums were spared any fumbling attempts.
Pulsating with natural beauty, Colorado is already a multi-stop destination for Irish visitors. Having – literally – put in the leg work, I thoroughly recommend Fort Collins for anyone planning a visit.