The height of serenity in Sardinia
After a nerve-jangling mountain jaunt, Bridget McGrouther is rewarded with sparkling views of the Costa Smeralda
STEPPING out of our Land Rover, we were rewarded with a cool breeze and the most stunning panorama of the Sardinian coastline from our mountain vantage point.
Tackling the bumpy, narrow tracks on an off-road adventure to Monte Nieddu hadn’t been the most relaxing of journeys.
But after a refreshing dip in an ice-cool pool above the Pitrisconi Waterfalls, surrounded by the sweet-smelling scent of wild macchia, all was forgiven.
On this exclusive TUI Collection excursion, we had a privileged view of the Costa Smeralda. This region may be known as a millionaires’ playground but no swanky sports cars make it up here.
Our group had earlier shared elevenses of crispy bread (called ‘carta di musica’ after paper-thin sheet music) with salami, cheese and wine in the shade of pine trees, but soon found more room for the delicious hilltop farm lunch of herbcrusted meat, and yet more wine.
We were certainly being treated to a taste of the high life as we were dropped off afterwards at one of the best beaches on the island, if not the world. Lu Impostu, a silvery strip of sand, is nicknamed ‘The Place’, but if it’s the place to be seen, we didn’t recognise any famous faces as we bathed in the turquoise shallows.
We had spotted some designer villas at prestigious Porto Rafael on the way back from our boat trip excursion earlier that week around the wild and beautiful Maddalena Islands. Yet the manicured grounds would be hard-pushed to match the natural splendour of the hidden, crystal-clear coves we had explored in this protected marine park, with water so vividly blue that it made us gasp.
Despite not sharing the same lucrative spending power, I wasn’t envious of our A-list neighbours there or at blingy Porto Cervo.
Booking an all-inclusive break at the TUI Sensimar Matta Village meant we could help ourselves to whatever good food or refreshment we wanted at the poolside restaurant or beach bar, with friendly, smiling staff always on hand.
And being nestled amid fragrant pines by a quiet, golden beach ensured we shared a similar level of seclusion.
We could follow a forest path to tiny Posada, clustered below a picturesque castle, or walk along the shore to a family-run pizzeria, but other than occasional shuttle buses to the nearest villages of Budoni and Tanaunella, with their stunning beaches, we were miles from any brash resorts.
This is just how we like it. Adultsonly, too, there was nothing much to disturb the peace, apart from perhaps Patrik’s enthusiastic Aquafit instruction, or the evening entertainment, ranging from folk dancing to beach parties.
A daily activity programme also included yoga and cocktail making, although we were content to read our books on sun loungers.
I was on holiday with my sister Helen and we would chat to new friends we had made at the poolside restaurant or beach bar.
One evening we took a shuttle bus to San Teodoro, where we enjoyed browsing the market stalls, soaking up the buzzing atmosphere and enjoying a shot of limoncello in the main square.
La Cinta, a glorious curve of sand, is as sugary white as the homemade Italian ice cream this popular seaside resort is famous for.
No wonder those in the know flock like the lagoon’s pink flamingoes to these serene and untouched shores.