I’m bringing my Argentina-style barbecue home ... to the land of my descendants

TOMMY KELLY is fourth generation Argentine. Yep, this guy, with the flat cap, red hair and big Irish grin. Both parents and all his grandparents were born in Argentina. He has an amazing tale of how his dual heritage inspired a new business. Ever have trouble convincing people you’re not Irish? All the time! When people ask me where I’m from, they mean which county! It’s led to some funny conversations at the pub. What was it like coming here? I got here in 2002 with the idea of finding my family roots and maybe some living relatives, but with a surname like Kelly, it wasn’t easy. My dad’s family came from Westmeath and my mum’s from Longford. I did find relatives and it was really moving. We compared pictures of our respective families and couldn’t believe the resemblances. How did the Argentine-Irish survive for 170 years as a culture, and grow 400,000 strong? ‘Marrying Irish’ was strongly encouraged, especially by my dad’s mother. One of her daughters ended up asking her if God himself was Irish! There was definitely pride and tradition, a great love for their roots and the desire to keep their heritage alive. It’s pretty ironic that I’m the first of the family to come back to Ireland, only to marry a French girl! What was it like growing up? My parents spoke English (with a strong midlands accent) to me when I was a child, with the accent and vocabulary of their grandparents who left Ireland in the mid 1800s. (E.g: ‘There’s a cuppa tae strong enough for a horse to trot over.’) My mum says I’ve talked about travelling back to Ireland since I was six. What’s it like now? The culture is still very much alive. That proud Irish feeling hasn’t disappeared. A lot of my relatives come here for what really feels like a pilgrimage. I once asked an IrishArgentine if they resented being ignored by us for 160 years before we sent a naval ship over in 2006. He replied: ‘We didn’t mind. We didn’t think ye could afford a ship!’ See how the Irish sense of humour persists. They only have good things to say about you, don’t worry! Tell us about your new business? We make traditional Argentine sausages and we’re called The Irish Gaucho. Why did you set it up? I do asado (traditional Argentine barbecue) as often as I can here and I was really missing the type of sausages we find in Argentina and that my family has made for generations. I started making them myself for our own consumption. Our Argentinian friends were really excited and our Irish friends loved them too so I thought, why not make this more than a hobby? Are they 100% Irish? They are made with 100% Irish pork. Only the recipe is not Irish. For the time being I am working with an approved meat factory where they make them for me under all the required regulations. (I bring the spices mixed – I am not sharing my recipe!). The plan is to set up my own place in the same area my family left. How is it going? We’re getting plenty of orders, a lot of them from individuals. We’ve supplied sausages to various events so far, including the Big Grill Festival in Herbert Park and events hosted by the Argentinian embassy. A few restaurants are also on board, which I’m really excited about. We’re still at an early stage and we’re looking at options in terms of funding. What’s different about asado? You almost learn how to prepare asado before learning to walk! My parents taught me how to select the meat, prepare the parilla (the grill) and mostly how not to rush. Asado is all about patience. We cook the meat very slowly to make the most of any cut and get the best flavour and tenderness. It’s the ritual of lighting up the fire, picking the right cuts, slow cooking, and chats with friends, whether two people or 20. What’s eating out like in Argentina compared to here? Very cheap, you can enjoy a great meal and bottle of Malbec for two people for the same as what a burger would cost you here. An asado would cost €5-10. The Irish Gaucho can be contacted via Facebook or Instagram (@theirishgaucho) or email theirishgaucho@gmail.com.