French lesson on the slopes
Kevin Gleeson finds there’s an authentic feeling in these alpine resorts
With the snow furiously swirling outside the window, it’s as if we are staring through the door of a washing machine or inside a settling snow globe. I’m catching a lift down the mountain in the back of a piste-basher, or snow groomer, those tank-like vehicles you see at night clinging to the side of the mountain so that the first skiers of the morning hit the slopes on runs that are in perfect condition. We have just enjoyed fondue in the cosy mountain-top restaurant Chalet du Sunny after our first day in Les Menuires.
I had travelled to the French Alps to discover what the mountains have to offer by visiting the two resorts of Les Menuires and La Plagne.
It’s a two-hour transfer from Geneva airport; we arrived just in time for lunch. It was a little late to click into our skis but we still had time to hit the slopes.
While electric scooters are becoming a regular sight on our streets they’re a relatively new sight on the snow.
I wasn’t very keen on the idea but once I got the hang of the accelerator it was great fun climbing up the hills before speeding back down into the valley.
The overall route we took was mainly flat and I wished my French had been better to understand if the remarks of the cross-country skiers we passed were encouraging or otherwise.
Les Menuires has long been seen as one of the least glamourous European ski resorts due to its many large, brutalist-looking accommodations built in the 1960s when the resort first opened. More and more chalet-style architecture has appeared over the years but there is no denying that the skiing found here is as good as anywhere in the Alps.
With 180 lifts serving over 600km of piste, the resort is particularly good for intermediate skiers.
We stopped off at a restaurant for lunch, which had an outdoor bar carved out of snow and ice and a DJ performing in front of a backdrop of the mountains. The new Le Roc Seven restaurant wouldn’t look out of place in any of the more exclusive resorts.
After lunch, we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring as many of the runs as we could squeeze in. I even found myself conquering a black run which, to be fair, is much easier when the snow is good.
The thrill-seeking didn’t stop there. The following morning before we leave for La Plagne we are the first people in the lifts, with bikes. If you find it awkward manoeuvring yourself in and out of a ski lift with your poles and skis then you can probably picture how elegantly I managed it with a mountain fat-bike, so called due to the extra fat tyres.
ONCE I GOT THE HANG OF THE ACCELERATOR, IT WAS FUN
Even when skiing, 8.30am is unreasonably early for me to be on a mountain. But it was worth it. The route we cycle is restricted to the toboggan run but with its steep hills and tight corners, it’s much more challenging than sliding down on your backside.
The conditions across most European ski resorts this season have been among the best for years. Right on cue, as we climb back up into the mountains on our approach to the resort of La Plagne, the snow starts to fall for the first time since we arrived. La Plagne also is only under two and a half hours from Geneva and Lyon airports but by the time it takes us to descend one mountain from Les Menuires and ascend another to get here it’s lunchtime again by the time we arrive.
So, no skiing but, you guessed it, there’s still plenty to do on the snow. Snow-shoeing had been planned for us but I had foolishly left my winter boots behind in Dublin.
When our guide arrives, he assures me this won’t be a problem and straps me into the spiked, plastic snow-shoes. Because I hadn’t planned in taking part I’m also wearing jeans. And I have no gloves. Regardless, off we set. The snow is coming down heavy now and you can hear a pin drop in amongst the tall trees.
Thankfully, I’ve completed the look of a novice after borrowing our guide’s gloves. Embarrassed? Somewhat. Worth it? Totally. We duck under fallen trees and cross alpine streams before pausing for a flask of tea and some chocolate.
Our base in La Plagne is the fourstar Hotel and Spa Carlina. The hotel also offers self-catered apartments and is situated right on one of the main slopes so that you can ski in and out too.
With the feel of a luxurious lodge, the bar at Carlina has a roaring fire where you can sit and take in the stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The property is just a five-minute walk from Belle Plagne, one of the 11 tiny villages that make up the resort and one of the prettiest.
This was my third visit to La Plagne but my first staying in this part of the resort.
Its location gives you quick and easy access to wherever you want to get on the surrounding mountains to start your days skiing and I think I’ve finally found my part of La Plagne.
The snow stopped falling during the night and conditions couldn’t be better. The variety of runs and quality of places to eat on the mountains are some of the best I’ve ever found.
There are also plenty of snow parks and half-pipes that you can veer off into once you’ve found your legs.
I even attempted a timed slalom and came in only three seconds later than the young person ahead of me.
What I love most about skiing in this part of the world is how authentic it feels.
Almost three-quarters of those who visit are French. It makes the whole experience feel more authentic and less like a bunch of Englishspeaking skiers have descended on the resort to party.
If you think you have left it too late this year to hit the slopes then fear not. Spring is the perfect season to go with plenty of snow still around and weather conditions are ideal. You can be surprised how sunny and warm it can get.
Tour operators and resorts also offer great deals at this time of year. Slopes can also be quieter making it a great time for beginners with all resorts in the France Montagnes region offering a two-for-one deal on equipment rental and ski passes for those first-timers accompanied by someone with experience. What’s not to like?