Retinol’s a firm favourite to keep your skin fresh

Anti-ageing skin care ingredient retinol deserves the accolades it gets. It can tighten pores, smooth wrinkles, fade pigmentation and improve texture, basically it tricks skin into thinking it’s young again. However, it comes with some trepidation for new users who fear side effects of dryness and irritation.

Retinol is usually introduced into an antiageing skin care regime gradually, perhaps one or two evenings a week a few days apart. Building up from there as skin becomes more resistant to the ingredient is the usual course. But that appears to be changing now with the introduction of better formulas that include ceramides or niacinamide. The former are fats that contribute to the structure of the epidermis, the bricks and mortar of the skin making it more resistant to irritation. Niacinamide boosts ceramide production, and it has an antiinflammatory action, again reducing any irritation caused by retinol.

If retinol does cause skin irritation or dryness it is possible to apply a ceramiderich cream beforehand to minimise discomfort, but it may slow down the regenerative powers of the anti-ageing star. But you might not have to do that for long, there are new formulas being launched that will do that for you.

We are starting to see a new wave of retinol skin care from the likes of Murad (above), La Roche-Posay and PIXI Beauty that are taking this new approach and it’s making retinol more suitable to all skin types, even sensitive. In the case of the new Murad reformulated retinol line there is an eye serum that is used on both the lids and under eye to tackle crow’s feet and crepe-like skin.

In due course more new retinol formulations will arrive, with them the promise of more youthful skin that glows and tightened pores.

There is of course still the presence of bakuchiol in the market for those who would like the results of retinol but without actually using it on their skin. A plant extract, bakuchiol was discovered to have the same effects on skin but with none of the irritation. That too is now on offer from brands like Ole Henriksen, The Inkey List and The Ordinary, expect to see more of this ingredient from more beauty brands launching this year.

Which to choose from if you have tried neither before? The choice is yours, but if you’re just starting an anti-ageing regime maybe go for bakuchiol first and then as needed, progress to retinol for fast-acting results. As with all anti-ageing that has a dramatic effect on skin a daily sunscreen must be worn to protect skin from sensitivity. UV protection is an anti-ageing step in itself and should be applied regardless.

A sunscreen must be worn to protect skin from sensitivity