A thing of BEAUTY
There are 700 tulip varieties to choose from. And each one is...
Spring-flowering bulbs have been available in my local garden centre since August, and while I think late summer is way too early to be setting any in the ground, early to mid-autumn is great for most. Yet canny gardeners will know there is one notable exception. I’m referring to tulips, which are best planted this month.
There are two main reasons. First of all, tulip bulbs don’t form roots until the weather turns colder, so there is little advantage in planting early. And there’s less chance of them being hit by tulip fire, a fungal disease that disfigures flowers, foliage and stems.
Don’t worry if you’ve already planted tulip bulbs – I’m sure they’ll be fine. If you haven’t, put some time aside to choose some as there are about 700 different ones available. Among them are varieties that are suitable for borders and containers, or that can be used for bedding out and naturalising in grass.
Tulips originate from parts of the Middle East and central Asia, and have been cultivated for centuries. The first European to encounter them was Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, a diplomat working in Constantinople, the then capital of the Ottoman Empire.
In a report from 1555, he wrote: ‘The tulip has little or no smell; its recommendation is the variety and beauty of the colouring.’
Fast-forward 80 years and tulips were fashionable across Europe, especially in Holland where people paid extraordinary sums for unusual varieties. In fact, a single bulb of red and white ‘Semper Augustus’ was valued at 10,000 guilders in 1637, the equivalent of the asking price of a swanky canalside house in Amsterdam.
Today, a bag of ten bulbs costs about a fiver and will provide interest between March and May, depending on the variety. For my money, later-flowering types are invaluable as there are other spring beauties capable of turning heads earlier in the season.
In beds and borders, try ‘Bestseller’, ‘Typhoon’ or ‘Flaming Parrot’, with its yellow and red streaked blooms perched on 20in stems. Compact forms are perfect for pots. Among t he best a re ‘Prinses Irene’, ‘Fusilier’ and ‘Red Riding Hood ’– its bright red blooms are displayed above leaves adorned with crimson streaks.
For a memorable spring bedding display, set ‘Queen of Night’, ‘Angel’s Wish’ and ‘Abu Hassan’ among wallf lowers, forget-menots and polyanthus.
If you want to brighten up a lawn, ‘Flava’, ‘Little Princess’ and several others a re suitable for planting in short grass, where they will form large colonies in time.
The general rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to dig holes two to three times their depth. However, ignore received wisdom when setting tulips in the ground. Aim to plant bulbs 6in-8in deep, measuring from the bottom of the bulb – planting deeply like this will help to protect them against diseases. Either excavate individual holes or dig out a trench if planting a large group, spacing bulbs 2in-4in apart. Bulbs will do best in free-draining soil but it’s still possible to grow tulips if you garden on clay – plant a bit deeper, add a 2in layer of sharp grit to the base of holes and fill with a mixture of two parts soil to one part grit.
Once they’ve been planted there’s very little to do. In early spring, gently fluff up soil around emerging growth to allow moisture and air to reach the roots. After flowering, deadhead to prevent plants setting seed, but let foliage die back naturally as this will help recharge bulbs for flowering next spring.
However, most rot in the ground. Unless the variety is known to be happy left in place, lift the bulbs once the foliage withers and store in a warm, dry and dark place. Replant the following autumn.