THE 12 WINES OF CHRISTMAS

1

JANSZ PREMIUM CUVéE NV AUSTRALIA TASMANIA

€35, whelehanswines.ie, independents

This is one of the finest New World sparklers that I’ve tasted, made using the traditional Champagne method and the same grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Delightfully fragrant (honeysuckle!) with a touch of warm toffee on the nose, quite full and ripe but still elegant, balanced and refined. The Jansz vineyards in Tasmania have much the same climate as Champagne. The team here refer to the way they make the wines (i.e. just like in Champagne) as méthode Tasmanoise!

2

TESCO CHAMPAGNE GRAND CRU

2013 FRANCE CHAMPAGNE €34.43, Tesco

A remarkable bargain for not just grand cru Champagne but one with seven years’ bottle age and one of the best kept secrets. Grand cru grapes are the dearest in the region and often achieve greater ripeness than the rest – and you can taste a dimension of richness here. This is

100% Chardonnay, all from the Côtes des Blancs so we’re talking very serious gear indeed – which makes the price all the more remarkable. Tastes twice the price.

3

TAITTINGER COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS 2007 FRANCE CHAMPAGNE

€176.50, thecorkscrew.ie Amongst the super-duper Champagnes, the kind that come in presentation boxes (like this one) Taittinger Comtes de Champagne is both brilliant and a bit overlooked. Other tête de cuvée Champagnes shout more loudly and are consumed conspicuously. Put it like this. People who like to be seen drinking Dom

Perignon have probably never heard of this one. Stunningly elegant, all Chardonnay, nicely mature (but will get even better), this is one of the greatest Champagnes and all the better for being understated.

4

SPECIALLY SELECTED NEW ZEALAND CHARDONNAY 2019 NEW ZEALAND GISBORNE

€8.99, Aldi

You could argue, misquoting

Jane Austen, that New

Zealand Sauvignon has delighted us quite enough at this stage. You would never guess that some of the world’s greatest

Chardonnays are Kiwis and while this won’t be confused for, say Kumeu

River, it’s a helluva lot cheaper. Gisborne, on the

North Island, has been the warmest and sunniest part of

New Zealand in recent vintages and you can taste that ripeness here — along with a gentle seasoning of

smoky, vanilla oak. Outrageously good value.

5 DOMAINE SIMONIN SAINTVERAN 2018

FRANCE BURGUNDY

€25, Grapevine Dalkey,

Deveney’s, Blackrock Cellar,

Jus de Vine

Sure, I’d love to drink a lot more Meursault and

Montrachet but I’m not a

Russian oligarch. Actually, it’s more fun to find the interesting wines from top producers in the less fashionable parts of

Burgundy. This is a superb example from a small estate between the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson.

Citrus zing with buttery

toastiness, a suggestion of hazelnuts and a mineral tang (think gun flint) on the finish. It just shows what the previously overlooked Mâconnais can do.

6 DOMAINE DU COLOMBIER CHABLIS GRAND CRU BOUGROS 2018

FRANCE BURGUNDY €50, whelehanwines.ie Honeyed yet dry, with racy minerality and tremendous depth and length. Layers of flavours peel away gradually to reveal more and more as the wine opens up in your glass. Grand cru vineyards in Chablis are the best exposed to the sun and you really taste the extra ripeness and richness here. In terms of very serious white

Burgundy, this is something of a bargain. It’s not something I can often say of a wine at this price, but it tastes dearer than it costs.

7

DOñA PAULA ESTATE BLACK EDITION 2018 ARGENTINA MENDOZA

€10, Dunnes Stores

The price of this serious

Argentinian red is all over the place. It’s often pushing towards €20 but Dunnes have it at a bargain tenner at the moment. A blend of Cabernet, Malbec and Petit Verdot, it may be inspired by Bordeaux but it’s very much its own wine. Although ripe, it has proper structure and could not be further from those dreary New World fruit bombs. In a sense, it leans more towards Europe — thank Languedoc — than the Americas.

8

CHÂTEAU SIRENE SAINTJULIEN 2016

FRANCE HAUT-MÉDOC €32.50, Marks & Spencer

One of my top finds of 2020 and tasted only in the last ten days, this very classy

Bordeaux is actually the second wine of Chateau du Glana in Saint-Julien. It’s also one of the best value ‘serious’ clarets that I’ve encountered in quite a while. Cassis with a touch of smoke and a definite cedarwood/pencil box aroma that is the definitive hallmark of Saint-Julien. Ripe, savoury, classically structured, ready to drink and quite delicious. A great discovery.

9

DOMAINE THEULOT JUILLOT MERCUREY 1ER CRU ‘LA CAILLOUTE’ 2018

FRANCE BURGUNDY

€35.75, winesdirect.ie, Arnott’s

Mercurey is one of those ‘smart’ Burgundies from outside the Côte d’Or, a bit further south to be precise and north of the Mâconnais. This lovely expression of Pinot Noir is seductively fragrant, juicy and fresh, quite silky, full of crunchy raspberry and ripe black fruits with a musky touch of spice. Complex and clearly serious stuff but warmly accessible and easy at the same time. It could take some more ageing gracefully and gratefully but why wait? It’s lovely right now.

10

NOVAL COLHEITA 2000

PORTUGAL DOURO €29.50/37.5cl, Celtic Whiskey Shop

This is port, but not as most of us know it. Yes, it’s strictly speaking a tawny but it’s the wine of a single year and, in this case, one of the greatest vintages of the past 50 years.

Colheita ports are vintage ports that have been aged, from start to finish, in wood. This is phenomenally concentrated, with layer upon layer of flavours and whopping persistence on the palate after the last drop is swallowed. Candied peel, toasted nuts.

11

H.M. BORGES 10 YEAR OLD SERCIAL MADEIRA OLD RESERVE

PORTUGAL MADEIRA

€39, mitchellandson.ie

Madeira is one of the last undiscovered wines, poorly understood and badly marketed. The advantages to all of this are the keen prices for amazing quality and this is a fine example. Sweet but with characteristic rapierlike acidity, it has a toasty nuttiness and orange zest, quite unlike any other fortified wine. Serve it very lightly chilled with blue cheese — Crozier Blue — and walnuts, or with rich Christmas cake. It’s also great with — no surprise — Madeira cake.

12

CHâTEAU DE FARGUES SAUTERNES

2003 FRANCE BORDEAUX €57.50/37.5cl, greenacres.ie

In 1999 Count Alexandre de Lur Saluces sold Chateau d’Yquem, home of the greatest dessert wine, and remained briefly as managing director until he was let got by new owners, LVMH. However, he also had nearby Chateau de Fargues where he now concentrates all his attention.

This stunning Sauternes pre-dates his departure from Yquem but it’s (a) surprisingly Yquemlike and (b) much cheaper than subsequent vintages.

He likes to mention that de Fargues has been in his family since before

Columbus sailed for

America.