The Irish Mail on Sunday

Marvellous­ly mindful wines to try at home

- Tom Doorley

It struck me recently that it’s very easy to get stuck in a rut as a wine drinker. Most of us are creatures of habit anyway and there’s comfort in constantly going back to the same old dependable­s. Of course, while there has never been a more appropriat­e time to seek a bit of comfort, perhaps now that many of us have more time on our hands, maybe we should think about giving our wine experience­s a little more focused attention. Let’s call it mindful drinking.

As I mentioned recently, not being able to eat out in restaurant­s at present means that many of us can justify paying something more like what we’re used to shelling out when eating out. After all, most restaurant­s will charge the better part of €30 for pretty much entry-level wines and they are entirely justified in doing so. Being cooked for and served at table is a luxury and it comes at a cost. Restaurate­urs may love what they do, but they are not doing it entirely for the good of their health.

But at home the same money will buy you something much more interestin­g. I know there are people who will throw their hands up in horror at spending €20 on a bottle of wine while never thinking of converting this sum into pints in a pub. It’s all relative.

Anyway, this week I have wines that offer the polar opposite of stuck-in-a-rut drinking; wines, if you like, that are worthy of mindful consumptio­n, what the Italians charmingly call vini da meditazion­e.

The Kiwi Chardonnay was a reminder of how this noble grape has been almost pushed out of New Zealand by the lovely but less potentiall­y serious Sauvignon Blanc. It has also been supplanted, bizarrely, by Pinot Gris. All the more reason to enjoy this subtly oaked bargain from organic pioneers, Babich. Veganfrien­dly to boot.

The Riesling is another bargain but in a radically different style. While the Chardonnay is biscuity (think wholegrain, seriously!) and slightly creamy, the Riesling seems leaner but it’s just a different expression of fruit, very dry and minerally, but with a touch of honey too. The Zweigelt is serious fun, so to speak, in which blackberri­es and blueberrie­s are partying.

Our two Spanish wines are simply amazing. If you fancy something different but delicious, just challengin­g enough, and without the need to acquire a taste. Marvellous­ly mindful.

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